(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj118/casey71us/2X12%20series_zpssbrxi8wt.gif)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj118/casey71us/2x12%20Parallel_zpsbf5awqyd.gif)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj118/casey71us/4x12%20SeriesParallel_zps3sj5tgxt.gif)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj118/casey71us/4x12%20stereo_zpsaa2emdgj.gif)
Good post Kim :thumb-up:
This should help eliminate the confusion when people go to install custom speakers and re-wire their amps/cabs, just as long as they remember to pay attention to the Nominal Impedance requirements on the amplifier!
Harley 8)
GREAT idea, Kim :thumb-up:
I wish this had been here when I got my 4x12 cabinet & rewired it for stereo. Coulda saved me some searching - which it will do for others now, thanks to you :bow:
Of note though, where it says "ring" it should say sleeve so not to be confused with Tip, Ring, Sleeve (TRS) stereo jacks. Mono jacks, as used in these diagrams, are Tip Sleeve (TS) jacks not Tip Ring (TR).
A useful wiring is how I did one of my Split stacks so if you plug into one jack the cab is mono with speakers in parallel, if you plug into both jacks it splits the speakers to be separate (stereo). The speakers in it are 16ohm so it's either 8 ohm mono or 16 ohm L, 16 ohm R (which is how I typically use it).
Thanks to GuitarBuilder for providing this extra attached info. :wave: A lot more in-depth and comprehensive, should anyone require that.
Quote from: GuitarBuilder on November 21, 2016, 12:23:17 PM
Check out the attached article - it has every conceivable 4x12 wiring combination.
What would the wiring look like, if I wanted to use a 2x12 either in Stereo or in Mono(Series)?
So 8 Ohms each side or 16 Ohms Mono?
Can I use 2 switchable Jacks or do I have to use 3 Jacks?
Edit, you wanted series not parallel :facepalm: , here's how to do it easily parallel..
Hey Griphook, this is how I've wired one of my Split stacks (2 x 16 ohm celestion 70s) so in stereo (both jacks) 16 ohms per channel. Mono, one jack 8 ohm (speakers in parallel).
So you need 2 jack sockets, one normal and one switching (connects the tip (+ve) to the sw lug with no jack inserted).
+ 16ohm - + 16 ohm -
| | | |
| | | |
| | + |
+_______ |__ sw lug |
| |
- _____________-
So wire SP1 to normal jack (+ & -), wire SP2 to switch jack (+ & -), wire normal jack +ve to switch jack switch lug. If the jacks are not earthed together through a metal plate, then also wire the normal and switch jack - ves' together (red line).
So when you plug into normal jack only, both speakers mono in parallel. When you plug into both jacks, the join between normal jack + and switch jack + is broken (goes nowhere) so is now stereo.
Quote from: Kim on November 27, 2016, 07:56:33 AM
Thanks to GuitarBuilder for providing this extra attached info. :wave: A lot more in-depth and comprehensive, should anyone require that.
Quote from: GuitarBuilder on November 21, 2016, 12:23:17 PM
Check out the attached article - it has every conceivable 4x12 wiring combination.
That PDF is MONEY. Thanks Kimmer, and thanks GB!!
Here's another one I recently used to reconfigure one of my cabs. This original post has been edited to use the Cliff jacks MJMP mentioned below.
(https://i.imgur.com/aOpDbLE.jpg?1)
This uses a switching jack to make the 2x12 Stereo or Mono depending on whether both jacks are uses or just one. Here, the other non-switching jack is the Primary jack. Plugging into the Primary jack alone gives a Mono 2x12 at 8 ohms (each speaker is 16 ohms itself). Adding another plug to the Switch jack splits the 2x12 into Stereo at 16 ohms per side. Note that plugging into just the non-switching jack alone will result in just one active speaker at 16 ohms.
Be sure to clearly label the jacks as to which one is the Primary and be sure to match the impedances to your amp in regards to which jack(s) you will be using.
Good idea but I would use different jacks, the ones you are using seem to be stereo jacks. I would use cliff jacks, they are cheaper, easier to wire up and they are isolated.
Also these can handle 5A/2000V while the 14B only can handle 1A/25V which is too low.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/jack-cliff-14-mono-black-plastic-nut-marshall
Quote from: MarshallJMP on November 04, 2018, 09:12:32 AM
Good idea but I would use different jacks, the ones you are using seem to be stereo jacks.
They are drawn as what appears to be "stereo" TRS jacks but they are in fact regular TS jacks. Like I said, the guy who originally rendered the drawing made a few errors....lol I will go back and edit the pic to clear up that confusion.
But I do like that Cliff jack a lot better. I think I'll change over to that as well anyway when I get the chance. :thumb-up:
That 14b jack is also a stereo jack.
Or even more simple, you can wire it like I have 1 of my split stacks:1 normal mono jack and 1 mono switching jack, and use the metal plate to connect the 2 jacks -ves (or run a jumper lead to connect both jack -ves if the mounts are plastic etc), the split stack has a metal plate so I didn't have to run that jumper.The non switch jack is primary (or as Kim said you only get 1 speaker). Solder a jumper from the primary jack +ve to the switch lug on the switch jack (this does the parallel connection when nothing is plugged into the non primary jack and brakes the connection when a jack is plugged into it). Wire one speaker to each jack (normal +ve - +ve and -ve to -ve), so mono 8 ohms using just primary jack, or plug into both jacks and 2 x 16 ohm (stereo).
A variation would be to use 2 mono switch jacks and wire a jumper from the +ve of each jack to the the other jacks switch lug, then it wont matter which jack you plug into for mono/parallel and both connections break when a jack is inserted into both jacks for stereo.
I would be carefull with using common grounds in stereo, it should be fine for usual amps but if you're using a bridged amp you will blow it up this way.
Hey MJMP, thanks for the warning :thumb-up: , but what would be the use case :dunno: ,
Best is to isolate the grounds from each other.
I went back and updated the drawing and info after ordering the new jacks and installing one in my new speaker cab. Thanks to MJMP :wave: for the brilliant recommendation to use the Cliff jack (https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/jack-cliff-14-mono-black-plastic-nut-marshall) :thumb-up: instead of the more expensive (and more inferior in this particular case) Switchcraft.
Here's a way to use Two cabs in parallel - just click on "watch on youtube" to view the video, it's not allowed on any other sites, I guess :dunno:
Note: This will drop your impedence to half of each cab (two 16 ohm cabs = 8 ohm load parallel)
You can also add 2 jacks (one is different) like used in the ADA split cabs so you can run them in parallel or series.
That's a 13 year old video.
These days, everyone is downsizing their rigs, or going completely amp-less in a lot of venues, so realistically, this would only be useful for getting your impedance to match up with your power amp.
Fortunately, I own a bunch of split-stack cabs, so I can use them in series or parallel as needed. Even so, there's no place around here I can use those unless I invest in a couple of 20-watt rack mounted power amps, then maybe that might be an acceptable power level in the few places that still have live bands around here.
That's why I've been experimenting with building pedal boards that can be used with, or without amplifiers. I'm trying to see if I can re-create that magic tone and feel going direct into my DAW. So far, my efforts have been less than inspiring. I'll continue this topic in a more appropriate thread.
Harley 8)
Quote from: Harley Hexxe on December 22, 2022, 05:39:03 AM
That's a 13 year old video.
These days, everyone is downsizing their rigs, or going completely amp-less in a lot of venues, so realistically, this would only be useful for getting your impedance to match up with your power amp.
Did they change how to wire up a cab since then? ;)
I could never find a pedalboard that sounded good in the mix in a live situation. I run my heads direct into the mixer, but I have to have a stage volume setup too. Just in case the IEMs are on the blink or whatever....Always have an amp & speakers
It's not that they changed the wiring since then, more like club owners bitch like little girls about how loud your rig is.
Some won't let you bring an amp to your gig. They want it all in the PA. They just don't have to deal with a drummer on an acoustic kit. That's our problem.
Wow, I'm glad to say that has not happened here (yet)
Lots of guys bring a lil 10" champ with them, probably 5w, with a mic in front of it. I cannot hear that with the guys that play drums behind me....both of them are heavy hitters, need some air moving
I played without amps for a few gigs, but it's just wrong to approach a stage and hear only drums once you get behind the mains. That was the impression I got when I pulled my IEMs out for soundcheck
I know what you mean.
I don't use IEMs, and I really like to have the balance of drums, bass, and guitar, and keys if available onstage. Not through the house mix monitors either. Most of the time the guitar is buried so I can't tell what I sound like.
I need to move.
Oh, the 5 watt Champ only has an 8" speaker. If it has a 10" speaker I think it's a 20 Watt amp. Still, a Champ isn't enough to get in a band mix usually unless it's mic'ed.
P.S. You wanted to see my new axe, it's posted.
I know one guy who told me his was 5w, he must've had the 8"
There's another guy, travels with a top 40 band that has no permanent members, all hired guns. He uses one too, with a BIG pedal board, which looks kinda hilarious
IEMs: I love them for singing, hate them for playing. Sometimes, I pull one out and leave the one in that is closest to the drums
SO.....I just picked up a 2x12 cab for pretty cheap. I wanna wire it up for mono and stereo, and I have a question that I think I already know the answer to....see the diagram below, two options for a mono 8 ohm cab; 16 ohm and 4 ohm. Also options for dual 8 ohm load in stereo.
But, what happens if I wire the cab BOTH ways and plug into the mono jack? What happens if I plug into the stereo jacks? I think I'm asking for trouble because of the way it's wired to do both, you're not going to get that 16ohm load in the mono jack like you're thinking....is that correct?
btw: I can easily just leave it as a stereo cab with two jacks, I have a cab merger that will allow me to run it mono :)
It looks to me like you'll get the 16 ohm mono load. IF you are using all TS jacks, the ones that aren't plugged in should be shunted.
If you get any sound at all that is. Just be sure you know where your impedance is set on your amp before you plug in!
Harley,
That's what I was thinking, except for the shunting part.
I figured the simplest way was just to wire each speaker to a jack, boom - stereo cab. I have two jacks in the cab with the wires soldered to the jacks, tied up inside to do that if I want.
Right now it's a mono 16 ohm cab, which is perfect for my lunchbox heads. I still have my two 1x12 cabs for running stereo.
Dante, didn't I already had you covered back earlier in this thread?
Quote from: Kim on November 04, 2018, 08:07:22 AM
Here's another one I recently used to reconfigure one of my cabs. This original post has been edited to use the Cliff jacks MJMP mentioned below.
(https://i.imgur.com/aOpDbLE.jpg?1)
This uses a switching jack to make the 2x12 Stereo or Mono depending on whether both jacks are uses or just one. Here, the other non-switching jack is the Primary jack. Plugging into the Primary jack alone gives a Mono 2x12 at 8 ohms (each speaker is 16 ohms itself). Adding another plug to the Switch jack splits the 2x12 into Stereo at 16 ohms per side. Note that plugging into just the non-switching jack alone will result in just one active speaker at 16 ohms.
Be sure to clearly label the jacks as to which one is the Primary and be sure to match the impedances to your amp in regards to which jack(s) you will be using.
I saw that diagram Kim, but I don't understand it....forgive me
Hey Dante, this is very similar to how I've wired my spare slant split stack. If you plug in just to the top jack (non-switching), you get both speakers mono, in parallel (so impedance will halve, i.e. 2 x 8 ohm = 4ohm etc.). In this setup, when you plug into the switching jack (I just used the simple ones (3 lugs) which connect the tip to the middle lug with no jack and open when a jack is inserted but have there own middle solder lug which you'd connect to the other speakers +ve). So when you also put a jack in this socket, the opening of the switch bit breaks the +ve to +ve connection (green wire) that's connected with no jack is inserted and will then be stereo (2 x 8ohms (you said)). If you just plug into the switch jack, you just get the one speaker it's primarily/directly connected to. The slight difference using a normal 3 lug switching jack to the way MJMP does it with "cliff" jacks, is they have 4 lugs open/close both +ve and -ve connections (with jack plugged in, as in diagram) where the more simple switch jack just open/closes one lug (which you use for +ve to the other speaker (green wire) and the earth is connected (the way I did it) by the metal jack plate that both jacks are mounted to and in contact with. So the red wire in the diagram (-ve) is not needed (the way I have it) as it's connection is provided by them both being earthed/connected to the metal mounting plate (or you need to wire the 2 jacks earth lugs together if they are mounted on plastic etc.). The 4 lug cliff jack method is better, but both work.
Simple way for you though would be wire it stereo and use your cab merger when you want mono.
I get that diagram. There are a lot of 4x12 cabs set up with those.
Dante, by default, 1/4" jacks are shunted when nothing it plugged into them. They remain silent and no sound passes through them. That's why when you unplug your guitar from your amp, there is no amp noise.
Quote from: Dante on April 08, 2024, 05:14:46 PM
I saw that diagram Kim, but I don't understand it....forgive me
No worries, I see I did a piss-poor job of labeling and designating nomenclatures......by that I mean I completely missed all that altogether. Ha! :facepalm: Anyhoo, Richard and Harley explained it quite well.
This setup worked great for that particular cab/idea I was using at that time. :thumb-up: