ADA Depot - A Forum To Support Users of ADA Amplification Gear
Non ADA Gear => Rack Gear => Topic started by: gb on July 12, 2014, 01:58:09 AM
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Hi guys
I know this is not ada gear. I do have a non ada gear problem not sure if anyone can help me troubleshoot.
I have a soldano sp77 which i love and i alternate between this and my ada mp1 (Mp2 was awesome but just not for me so its on the back burner for now .. possibly for sale later not sure. i dont want to regret selling lol) .. anyway!
so at rehearsals i started having some crackling noise come through then i noticed tapping my foot on the guitar lead you could hear it through the amp/speakers. but the crackling was evident with or without the tapping. I thought it was tubes and replaced with new tubes but it still randomly crackles and noticeably. Wondering an earth problem? the sp77 is fairly mint in condition and well looked after. not sure is there anything i can do to test anything? or does this sound like a common "problem" with a common "cause" ?
Granted i thought it was leads etc. but i plugged it all in using same guitar into the ADA MP1 and it was fine.
Which leads me onto my next question. prior to all this i was having volume issues cutting through the band mix live. What i was doing (still new to racks) ada mp1 or soldano sp77 into the 2902 .. 2902 volume was at level 4 or 5 (10-11 oclock) and i was cranking the output on the ada mp1/soldano sp77 to get volume .. which my experienced mate said was incorrect. This way im pushing the preamp to get volume which is not correct. He said i should crank the volume on the 2902 (experiment where the sweet spot is) but somewhere between 2-3 oclock - max. and find a sweet spot .. then use the output of the preamp to manage volume. well WOW! boy he was right .. i was in tonal heaven and really blowing everyone away and i was back in the game .. he did mention, depending where dials were at that i should only have the output of the preamp a few notches up and sounding brutal but sweet.. my cleans are now also awesome doing it this way. I really found this sweet spot it was amazing.
I was just wondering if others do it this way or if this is common practice and i was just doing it wrong intially.
Anyway open for discussion and assistance on both queries... lol all i want is that lynch wicked sensation or ratt skid row poison sound or close to it as most of the music i play or like sounds like *sigh*
Cheers
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dammit.. just played with the mp2 again .. loving it still
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Hey gb, if you do decide to sell your MP2 I'm interested and it would go to a good home ;)
Trouble shoot.. those symptoms sound like connector problems (jack sockets, leads), if you haven't changed your guitar jack socket out in a while it's allways a good idea, they take lots of ware and tear. Don't skimp, put in the best quality you can, this is the first fundamental connection in the chain and they do wear out..
Confusing, no problem with MP1 but is with sp77 ?? could be that the connection issue is intermittent ? or issues with sp77 (possibly input jack needs a clean with contact cleaner, can't hurt BTW and basic maintenance). So that's the common stuff.. Could be an issue in the sp77 as crackling is random (could be just the fridge turning on off in the power circuit (solution power conditioner or uncoupled UPS)). Check leads power board(s) etc
I've got 3 power amp vol setting opinions/experience.
In a PA setting (as I'm an audio eng), you'd normally turn all power amps up full, gives best headroom and control overall vol from desk (good gain structure)
In PA gear where you want to over power the speakers (i.e. you have more power amp available than speakers can handle e.g 500 w amp > 300w speaker), valid scenario, even better head room, turn amp to 3/4 ish, carefull can blow speakers..
For guitar rack setups, I tend to go between 1/2 to 3/4 on power amp and around 1/2 or a bit more on MP1/2. From a gain structure context, I wouldn't go less than 1/2 on power amp, and adjust MP1/2 input to suite overall vol. However, if you've got other stuff chained between MP1/2 > power amp, it will change everything as now you have to get the gain and the wet/dry mix right through each of them. Anyway give me a call anytime we can chat at length
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Hey gb, if you do decide to sell your MP2 I'm interested and it would go to a good home ;)
Trouble shoot.. those symptoms sound like connector problems (jack sockets, leads), if you haven't changed your guitar jack socket out in a while it's allways a good idea, they take lots of ware and tear. Don't skimp, put in the best quality you can, this is the first fundamental connection in the chain and they do wear out..
Confusing, no problem with MP1 but is with sp77 ?? could be that the connection issue is intermittent ? or issues with sp77 (possibly input jack needs a clean with contact cleaner, can't hurt BTW and basic maintenance). So that's the common stuff.. Could be an issue in the sp77 as crackling is random (could be just the fridge turning on off in the power circuit (solution power conditioner or uncoupled UPS)). Check leads power board(s) etc
I've got 3 power amp vol setting opinions/experience.
In a PA setting (as I'm an audio eng), you'd normally turn all power amps up full, gives best headroom and control overall vol from desk (good gain structure)
In PA gear where you want to over power the speakers (i.e. you have more power amp available than speakers can handle e.g 500 w amp > 300w speaker), valid scenario, even better head room, turn amp to 3/4 ish, carefull can blow speakers..
For guitar rack setups, I tend to go between 1/2 to 3/4 on power amp and around 1/2 or a bit more on MP1/2. From a gain structure context, I wouldn't go less than 1/2 on power amp, and adjust MP1/2 input to suite overall vol. However, if you've got other stuff chained between MP1/2 > power amp, it will change everything as now you have to get the gain and the wet/dry mix right through each of them. Anyway give me a call anytime we can chat at length
cheers mate.. i think i might do. I dont want to let this beat me and i want to learn!! I want that versatility with the rack setup. I have the replifex which yes im not sure if im doing the correct levels etc. specially with all the options within the replifex lol.
Yes definately isolated to the SP77 everything else in the chain (leads, guitar etc..) is fine .. only when the sp77 is connected to the poweramp.. even with no guitar lead or input.. just output to amp..nothing looks blown inside (like capacitors or resistors). I jiggled the output jack to see if i can force the noise.. but nothing.. as in no pattern. It just randomly starts marking scratchy noises the tube sockets look visually fine but some of the contacts look tarnished and some look bright .. maybe thats where the issue is. ?
I put 2 new mullard 12ax7s in v1 and v2 .. i left v3 and v4 empty an theres no noise but no output either .. when i put tubes in v3 and v4 thats when it starts making noise.. not sure if that means anything as i dont know how all 4 tubes interact
i noticed it makes this scratch noise when i also tap the preamp itself and give it a little "smack" or if i tap the case its sitting on it makes the noise and amplifies out to speakers. Ive tried several different tubes. It sounds to be tube related although im using new tubes and tried different ones. so not sure. theres really not alot inside this thing a few resistors and capacitors and thats it lol.
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What it sounds like (as long as all the components in t sp77 are still good ?? ), is maybe dry joints, you can re-flow the circuit board (re-melt each solder join), if it's still in warranty though ?? take it back
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What it sounds like (as long as all the components in t sp77 are still good ?? ), is maybe dry joints, you can re-flow the circuit board (re-melt each solder join), if it's still in warranty though ?? take it back
oh not under warranty lol. for now ive put the sp77 aside and gunna try my mp1 or mp2 again for that 80s hair metal sound. i think i need to get alot into the effects side too (replifex) as i think thats the key aswell to that big sound (reverb and delay?)
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Hey gb, go for it :thumb-up: I know I keep it on about it but it's important to ensure the signal from your MP1/2 gets to the power amp as analogue, i.e. don't chain it through a digital device (you need to mix in the digital effects and preferably not within the digital unit unless the unit has a true analogue dry pass through, rare BTW), the difference is quite astounding, the A/D D/A convertors in the majority of digital units (and sounds cards) are very ordinary/stuff your sound. You can do this with the MP2 loop coz it's parallel (so mixes in the loop to analogue signal), not so easy with MP1 as its loop is serial, putting in a digital device with no true analogue pass through will stuff your sound (may as well buy a line 6...)
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Usually this comes down too 2 problem,either the tubes or a bad solder joint.You replaced the tubes os we can pretty much rules that out.So the only thing left is bad solder joint.So best is to reflow al the joints.(like rnolan already said).I would start with the power supply.
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I thought I replied to this but looks like it didn't work.
What do you mean by reflow? Heatup the solder and let cool?.
Also hers a lic of my tube sockets. Some pins look darker than others. .is it possible ths could be an issues with the socket
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/gbx78/20140712_183801_zpsepjp6wdy.jpg)
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A month ago I put a 15k resistor parallel to one on the board as a popular gain boost mod. I had trouble getting the resistor soldered on top. It was fine for a few weeks but wonder if this could be causing random scratchyness. I removed the resistor but the problem is still evident. Could I have done damage to the existing resistor from the constant heating up of solder to make it stick.?
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It could be the sockets but i really doubt it.As for the mod,no don't think so.Another possible cause is that one of the anode resistors is bad,this can also cause this problem,but to find this you will need to replace them all.
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After some playing with it ast night. I can replicate the issue by moving or jiggling the V1 tube. And I can stop it depending where its positioned. After chatting to rnolan last night perhaps its the contacts on the socket. Ill try contact cleaner first to see if this helps but also inspect to see if the socket is grabbing the lins properly. I recall this also started happening when I removed the original tubes to try new ones (just cauae the other tubes were very old)
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You could also try to resolder the contacts of the tube socket.
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You could also try to resolder the contacts of the tube socket.
Thats a good idea. I will try that. Thanks! !
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Normally you should be able to see cracked solder joints.
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Normally you should be able to see cracked solder joints.
Thanks mate. I will definately try this also to make sure. The tube sits quite loose in the socket compared to the others which are firm
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Hey gb, might be good to put in a new tube socket ?, they should seat firmly with good contact, not loose, the socket pin receptors may have pried apart so you may be able to nudge them closer again ? but in the end the tube should sit firmly or the contact will be intermittent.
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Thanks mate. Yes im thinking ultimately I will change the socket or have someone do it for me.. im sure I can manage this. Where is the best place ti buy quality tube socket parts? In australia
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Hey George, not sure but a friend of mine may know. These guys in Qld have sockets (http://evatco.com.au/product-category/sockets/) and is where I bought the Mullards for my 2 MP2s. Nice people, reliable etc and know their stuff, reasonable prices for tubes. Give them a call, maybe send them a photo in email of what you need. Does the schematic say what socket type you need ? I'm not particularly experienced here, MJMP/Sparker territory. But my friend is a tube nut, he's due home soon so I'll see what I can find out for you.
Cheers R
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If you can't find i can send you a few sockets with gold contacts,these don't tarnish.
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Thanks guys.. !!
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Can I ask an electronic question. I can mod my sp77 to sound like an x88r. Below are the steps:
You can make it sound very close to an X88R by putting a 1uf in parallel with R22 (SLO has this.)A SPST switch to ground added to R9 gives you a clean/crunch option on green.A SPST switch via 15k resistor connected in parallel to R17 gives you a big gain boost .
I can easily do the 15k resistor mod. But the 1uf mod im unsure. I went and bought 2 1ufs which are capacitors but the mod says to connect a 1uf to R22 which is a resistor... saying that I understand the capacitor has a - and + side which is marked so how would I know which way to do this.. also I have 2 different voltage rating 1uf.. a 53v and 430v or there abouts. How do I know which one I would need to use?
Any help would be appreciated. They are easy mods to perform just need some clarification. I tried emailing soldano with no response.. the above is their mod.
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Hey George, I'd go with the gold sockets from MJMP !!!, replace them both.
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Do you have a schematic of the soldano so i can take a look?
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Do you have a schematic of the soldano so i can take a look?
this is one i found online that has the Resistors labelled as per the circuit board
(http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/375962d1387004505-soldano-sp77-ii-bright-switch-drive-channel-sp77mods.jpg)
and here is the official schematic
(http://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/63463243/23432455/oldies/egyeb/soldano_sp77_preamp.pdf_1.png)
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ok pretty proud of myself.. i went through and checked EVERY resistor (youtube showed me how). Each resistor measured pretty close to its rating which i used the above schematics as reference to values when tested on the board except the following:
-R2 suppose to be 1M but mine read 0.01 so i pulled it off the board and tested as 1M so assumed in the circuit causing this?
-R9 which is suppose to be 100K but mine read 87K. I pulled it off the board and it was fine so i assumed in the circuit is causing the drop.
-R10 is 1M resistor but mine reported .76M, after R9 i assumed the same thing but didnt pull it off the board.
-R35 1K but mine was .988 ..again i assumed the same
The rest were spot on.
so i found R24 was dead .. i changed it out and HELLLOOO nomore funny buzziness the preamp came alive. now the only issue is it has very low output as in the output is all the way up and the gain all the way up and its barely audible with the power amp cranked (bedroom volume is the best way to describe it) so something is wrong still and not sure where to check, also there is a loud hum that increases with volume on either preamp or power amp (not power amp its the preamp) (even with amp separated from rack and not touching metal or anything else.) .. perhaps these 2 issues are related? i remember when it was working in all its glory it was quite loud and output only needed to be on a few notches with the power amp cranked.. now its nowhere near that with output cranked on preamp.
Marshalljmp are you able to advise based on the schematics what i could check that might cause low output..? i havent tested capacitors. A guy at the local electronics store said with audio gear to check capacitors.. or a ground issue?
Im nearly there! soldano havent replied to any emails so i gave up and considering the circuit board looks simple with a few resistors and capacitors i feel with some guidance i could fix this issue myself. ive learnt heaps in the process.
Cheers
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Can you measure the anode and cathode voltages?
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Can you measure the anode and cathode voltages?
i can if that can be done with a multimeter.. haha and how do i do that? you will have to tell me where exactly to put the multimeter probes on the board
ps ill also add all these issues started about a week after I sprayed contact spray on the V1 tube socket to rectify scratchiness (which is fixed now) . i wonder if this has caused something? ive tried to clean as much as i can of it off the board
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now saying all that i just tried another new resistor (this one was different coloured 5 band as opposed to the previous 4 band) 100K for r24 as per the schematics and now the preamp is quite loud .. back to normal!!!
im not sure about the bassy hum but the noise gate cleans it up. i think ill leave it for now but will take it to a tech to check out in future if its still an issue..
how funny though changing that same resistor to another same value one just fixed it up!
thanks Marshalljmp for checking out! wow a 0.50c resistor all it was, and i nearly (literally this week) was going to send it to a tech.
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ok next question. Can i put an input jack to the rear of the preamp. And is it as simple as duplicating the front jack but to the rear (IE run some wires from the solder points to the same pins on the rear jack?)
i love how the ada has the rear input for rack stuff and because i plug my guitar into the decimator at the rear
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Hey George, (Can i put an input jack to the rear of the preamp. And is it as simple as duplicating the front jack but to the rear (IE run some wires from the solder points to the same pins on the rear jack?) ), Yes :thumb-up: , just like many (older) amp inputs, the input jacks are mostly in parallel.
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Hey George, (Can i put an input jack to the rear of the preamp. And is it as simple as duplicating the front jack but to the rear (IE run some wires from the solder points to the same pins on the rear jack?) ), Yes :thumb-up: , just like many (older) amp inputs, the input jacks are mostly in parallel.
thanks richard!! that'll be the first mod ill do to it.
gotta workout where this bloody bad hum is coming from the unit. i wont let it beat me! my ada mp1 is my primary preamp of choice!! but i really like the soldano as it has this edge and clarity that i cant dial in from the ada mp1. i can a/b them.
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Bet you can get it from the MP2 though :wave: hey not to bag the soldano (has it got 4 tubes ?? gain central).
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Bet you can get it from the MP2 though :wave: hey not to bag the soldano (has it got 4 tubes ?? gain central).
possibly .. but the mp2 is temporamental and only works when it wants to unfortunately :D otherwise id be pretty complete with the MP2.. i think we are all waiting for marshalljmp to find us a solution for it!
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Are you sure the 5 band was a 100k and not a 10k?Check the color code or measure the resistance.
http://electrical-info.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/color-code.jpg
Should be possible to put in a rear jack if you have the room to put it in.I suggest using the schematic of the rear jack mod,should work.Putting a jack parallel to the front won't work since the front jack is grounded when nothing is plugged in.If you put one parallel to it it will also be grounded,that why you need the rear jack mod.
Do you have some pics of the inside of the soldano's input?
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Are you sure the 5 band was a 100k and not a 10k?Check the color code or measure the resistance.
http://electrical-info.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/color-code.jpg
Should be possible to put in a rear jack if you have the room to put it in.I suggest using the schematic of the rear jack mod,should work.Putting a jack parallel to the front won't work since the front jack is grounded when nothing is plugged in.If you put one parallel to it it will also be grounded,that why you need the rear jack mod.
Do you have some pics of the inside of the soldano's input?
Yes I did check the first resistor I used to make sure it was 100k so dunno what happened there main thing its working.
I think the hum is a groundloop or coming from somewhere in the rack. Its more evident when the rack wah and tuner are used (im using the dry output from the wah to the tuner . Because when I use the the send loop from the ada is really noisey.) Ive tried the soldano with my other vht out if a rack and direct input and while there is a faint hum its bot like when in my rack wirh eveeything hooked up. So im going to assume that its more likely a rack issue not the soldano.. though the ada doesn't suffer this extra hum.. thats why I thought initially it was the soldano.. anyway the decimator looks after it. I think an issue ibhave is all the power adapters sitting near audio patch leads which is unavoidable. . When I move the power packs away from the patch leads you hear the hum chnage or go less. Might have to seperator the furman into another rack unit so tuw power packs can sit with it. Dunno..
Here is the input jack.
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/gbx78/Snapchat-20140827105637_zps7e54rfof.jpg)
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Are you using good quality patch leads ? If moving the power packs away reduces hum (noise induction), suggests the patch leads are picking up what they shouldn't. While probably hard to do in a guitar rack set up, generally leads should cross at 90 deg to minimise induction, but that's generally for unshielded network cables. But ground loops are tricky. Rule of thumb is keep power and input leads away from each other as much as you can.
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Are you using good quality patch leads ? If moving the power packs away reduces hum (noise induction), suggests the patch leads are picking up what they shouldn't. While probably hard to do in a guitar rack set up, generally leads should cross at 90 deg to minimise induction, but that's generally for unshielded network cables. But ground loops are tricky. Rule of thumb is keep power and input leads away from each other as much as you can.
yeah ive tried to seperate them. Can you recommend quality shielded patch leads? whether it be from OS or local. i think i should invest in some even if it doesnt entirely reduce it. i will have to work on keeping the power packs tied to the sides and away. perhaps the IEC extensions that come from the furman need to be longer in order for the power packs to sit away that way i can run the actualy power leads well away. Furman is at the top of the rack (due to the light it has that shines down).
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I run a power board up one side of the rack (velcro'd to the side) at the back. You'd either want to run your Furman from the power board or better, the power board (for the power packs) from one of the Furman outs. A mate of mine has bought cables here (http://www.artistguitars.com.au/shop/accessories/cables-leads/guitar-leads-cables/140502) and is very pleased. Good patch leads will help!! well are fundamental really.
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Ok so I spent the last 3hrs trying to troubleshoot my noise issues. While I have the decimator id like to reduce as much noise naturally first. So I started withy soldano into power amp.. both isolated and not using furman. And other than typical shhhhhhhh noise with high gain there is no hum at all. Great!!!
Ok I started to add things to the mix.. next rack wah.. added a little hum but it has a ground lift switch which I pressed and now it was silent... great!!!! Then added my intellifex into the mix.. and still quiet. Theres a little more than the first shhhhh with eveeything in the mix but its pretty quiet without any help... Ok so evrything is in.. though the soldano and power amp are seperated from the rack while the rack wah and intellifex and furman are in the rack still. Next step plug everything into the furman.. still quiet.. great..!!
So now lets add the decimator to help with LOUD volumes being close to amp and to take out the shhhhhhh. Done. I had to play with the ground lifts on the dec but it was quiet by the end.. now I noticed the thresholds for both channels on the decimator were much less than before.. ie not much required to clean it up which was great.. they were both on -40.. whereas before it was -28.. big difference
Ok so now when I put everything back in the rack ill have to make sure I maintain it.or make sure I isolate each component better.
Ok the spanner in the works.. korg dtr1 I just bought.. plug into power and a little hum starts.. plug from dry output of rack wah as this is the only signal out in this combo without putting the korg tuner in the signal chain.. a loud humm is now there!!!..I did read this is a known issue with the older korgs.. Im hoping with the expertise of the guys here perhaps is there a way to modify the korg to help with its ground loop issue?? It uses a 3 prong plug. . Though I read its dangerous to remove the earth pinI love that tuner however its causing me to go back to -28 threshold on the decimator to clean it up which leaves me with less sustain..Any ideas?
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Just to add that if I use my mp1 and use the loop send to the input of the korg tuner its still evident so I think the xomon issue ppl report is evident with my unit which I didn't notice before and just thought it was a ground loop when in the rack however it still hums isolated feom everything else
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More to add to th mind games.. I just tightened the screws on the decimator and a humm occurred. If I remove one screw from the rack it stops.. I noticed some of the finish has been scratched and when the screw touches it and the rail the hum occurrs.. ill ibhave to xover it with paint or tape..
Wow mind games.. lol I wont let it beat me!!!
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Hey go George, your getting there. Hey if you want a proper rack tuner go the Peterson strobe rack tuner (a bit expensive though ($550 ish ? IIRC), I use the Peterson strobo clip (here's the rack model for $400 US (https://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?category=135&action=itemView&itemID=6)).
IMHO, Loose the digital tuner (best thing you'll ever do :thumb-up: , apart from the noise...), tune in real time with a strobe tuner, no dead zone, instant response, accurate to 1/10th cent try one you won't go back, particularly with the sweetend tunings. The strobo clip is quite a bit cheaper (~$80) buy one from Melbourne (http://www.deluxeguitars.com.au/peterson-stroboclip.asp), great tuner, and clips on to my acoustics as well. I've used Korgs all my career and they have worked well, unfortunately no digital tuners (Roland IMHO is the worst) are very accurate (dead zones, i.e. if the sampled frequency is between x and y (the dead zone) glow green in tune lite...). So not only are they slow to respond (sample the note, compare to dead zone), they say they are in tune within a wider tolerance range.
Cheers R
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Thanks mate.. the dtr1 has a strobe tuner function in it. But if theres no solution for it I might have to sell it. I can't return it to my friend now and already invested in it .. though I might have to sell the ada microcab too. I dont really have a need for it I went a little rack happy buying stuff..
So yes confirmed whwn 2 of the screws are tight on the decimator ibget a ground loop but if I loosen them a touch the hum goesiaway.
Really happy how quiet the whole thing is without the decimator which means it will only be used to get rid of the shhhhh and unwanted noise or feedback at liud volume etc
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Cool :thumb-up: decimator screws are a worry though, they shouldn't be doing that.
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Cool :thumb-up: decimator screws are a worry though, they shouldn't be doing that.
ive emailed korg to see what they say.
yeah i noticed in the screw holes of the decimator there is bare metal exposed and i think thats from me taking it in and out of different rack cases trying to work out a good solution haha it wasnt like that before when i first got it and never had the issue until i noticed tnight when the hum appeared with just the decimator in the rack and i went to move it by unscrewing it and the hum came and went .. so i pinpointed it ..
its funny . all these hums etc. im working through it though. Im really surprised how quiet it is now and i havent changed anything cept the tuner and the screws and also the combination of ground lifts on the rack wah and decimator .. silent without the decimator activated.. and the threshold for each channel is still at about -38 .. a big difference to before as in a cleaner signal.
i appreciate the discussions and im learning heaps!
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Putting togheter a rack system is alot trial and error,sometimes it's better to isolate a device from the rack,sometimes it's better to not isolate it.I also spend alot of time putting togheter my rack.
The korg tuner are known for their groundloops,for me the headphone out of the mp-1 worked best.What you also can try is making a cable with one end of the ground loose,this can help sometimes.Or using a transformer so there's no galvanic connection.This should help the most.
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Putting togheter a rack system is alot trial and error,sometimes it's better to isolate a device from the rack,sometimes it's better to not isolate it.I also spend alot of time putting togheter my rack.
The korg tuner are known for their groundloops,for me the headphone out of the mp-1 worked best.What you also can try is making a cable with one end of the ground loose,this can help sometimes.Or using a transformer so there's no galvanic connection.This should help the most.
Thanks mate. Do you mean the power cable? Or the audio patch cable to the tuner? what do you mean using a transformer? Like a ebtech hum eliminator??
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Never disconnect the ground of the power connector!!!I mean the patch cable.
Yes something like the ebtech.
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Never disconnect the ground of the power connector!!!I mean the patch cable.
Yes something like the ebtech.
I thought so thats why I asked!!!.. so what do the ground lift buttons do or mean on the decimator and rack wah.. they stop the hum ..
Also by disconnecting the grnd on the latch lead doesnt rhat disconnect the signal then.. I assume 2 wires in the patch lead
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Not 100% sure but they usually disconnect on one side the ground,same as i suggest with the cable.
No it won't since you also have a ground connection trough the ground.But one side needs to be connected else the shielding is gone.I would try this first since this is the cheapest solution.
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Not 100% sure but they usually disconnect on one side the ground,same as i suggest with the cable.
No it won't since you also have a ground connection trough the ground.But one side needs to be connected else the shielding is gone.I would try this first since this is the cheapest solution.
I tried this last night.. I disconnected the ground wire at one end thinking maybe it's grounded elsewhere.. and the hum was gone however the tuner was reporting a signal on the display something sharp.. I rhink from memory if I plucked a string it still showed the note but when I muted my guitar or volume down the display showed signal and diaplaying g and sharp or something.. not sure why it would do that with the ground liftes off the audio lead. With ground on it went back to normal but humming.
Haha finicky little thing.
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Hey George, all healed up I hope :wave: MJMP's suggestion of using the headphone out is worth a try (turn the HF vol down though) as then there is no return (I'm assuming you plug your guitar into the tuner and tuner out to MP1??). The downside of coming off the HF out is the signal is whatever patch you've selected and distorted tubes add lots of harmonics (why we like them >:D ) which can upset some tuners making it hard to find the note (e.g. my IPS33 harmoniser has a distortion loop so it can get the signal straight from the guitar to "track" better).
You could also just plug into the tuner to tune and then plug into MP1 when your done (not go through the tuner thus not add hum)
Or better still, buy a Peterson Stroboclip see previous post, it's so much more accurate and no hum (no cables, clips on), best tuner I ever bought and I can tune my acoustics as well.
Cheers R
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Hey George, all healed up I hope :wave: MJMP's suggestion of using the headphone out is worth a try (turn the HF vol down though) as then there is no return (I'm assuming you plug your guitar into the tuner and tuner out to MP1??). The downside of coming off the HF out is the signal is whatever patch you've selected and distorted tubes add lots of harmonics (why we like them >:D ) which can upset some tuners making it hard to find the note (e.g. my IPS33 harmoniser has a distortion loop so it can get the signal straight from the guitar to "track" better).
You could also just plug into the tuner to tune and then plug into MP1 when your done (not go through the tuner thus not add hum)
Or better still, buy a Peterson Stroboclip see previous post, it's so much more accurate and no hum (no cables, clips on), best tuner I ever bought and I can tune my acoustics as well.
Cheers R
hey mate getting there.. work isnt helping!! rather be home playing with rack gear.
no im not going into the tuner and then out .. its out of the signal chain. so just using an output. The soldano pre doesnt have a second form of output so all i can do is use the second dry output of the rack wah to the tuner.
saying that if i use the send on the ada mp1 i still get the bad ground loop.
saying THAT! i tried marshalljmps suggestion to use the headphones from the ada mp1 and this seemed to do the trick perfectly!!
however i would have liked to come out of dry output on the rack wah to facilitate any preamp. I simply cannot make up my mind between the sp77 and the ada mp1.. ill play through one and just fall in love then 10mins later ill plug into the other and fall in love with that. though i will admit.. hence why im on this forum .. is that the ada mp1 is very versatile in comparison though the sp77 has this edge over the mp1 though a 1 trick pony essentially haha.
all good .. im learning about it all. and will play around somemore with other combinations. Im pretty happy with the tuner and i like the big display and i can just turn around and look at it.
i appreciate both of your inputs and discussions and helping me !! cant believe i fixed the sp77 myself and learning heaps about racks in the process.
there will be more questions to come and im enjoying this journey.. the best thing of all is at home running in stereo between 2 quad boxes .. theres simply no other sound like it!! love it!! shame its not practical for live situations hahaha running a quad in stereo isnt the same with the speakers next to each other hehehe
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Good to hear, yeah work doesn't help but does help pay the bills (and buy toys >:D ).
(running a quad in stereo isn't the same with the speakers next to each other), true, I put a bit of cardboard down the middle of my Yamaha quad box to run in stereo (helped a bit), I have one original split stack (an almost reasonable deal at Cash Convertors @ $170) with Celestion 75w 12s, I rewired it to be stereo or mono and I use it for rehearsals, it's not as good as 2 separate cabs (tends to flange (comb filter) a bit) but better than mono. My 2 other split stacks were made here by Pro Audio under license, and have Boogie Celestions 90w 12s (Celestion do custom runs for various manufacturers), they are a bit middy (like all things Boogie IMHO). I don't take them out so often since getting the other split stack, sick of lugging stuff....
Need to get your MP2 reliable (or pick up a good one), or you could run both the MP1 and sp77 and pick between them (a few ways you could do this) with different midi patches (even have both at once...).