Hey Dante, this is very similar to how I've wired my spare slant split stack. If you plug in just to the top jack (non-switching), you get both speakers mono, in parallel (so impedance will halve, i.e. 2 x 8 ohm = 4ohm etc.). In this setup, when you plug into the switching jack (I just used the simple ones (3 lugs) which connect the tip to the middle lug with no jack and open when a jack is inserted but have there own middle solder lug which you'd connect to the other speakers +ve). So when you also put a jack in this socket, the opening of the switch bit breaks the +ve to +ve connection (green wire) that's connected with no jack is inserted and will then be stereo (2 x 8ohms (you said)). If you just plug into the switch jack, you just get the one speaker it's primarily/directly connected to. The slight difference using a normal 3 lug switching jack to the way MJMP does it with "cliff" jacks, is they have 4 lugs open/close both +ve and -ve connections (with jack plugged in, as in diagram) where the more simple switch jack just open/closes one lug (which you use for +ve to the other speaker (green wire) and the earth is connected (the way I did it) by the metal jack plate that both jacks are mounted to and in contact with. So the red wire in the diagram (-ve) is not needed (the way I have it) as it's connection is provided by them both being earthed/connected to the metal mounting plate (or you need to wire the 2 jacks earth lugs together if they are mounted on plastic etc.). The 4 lug cliff jack method is better, but both work.
Simple way for you though would be wire it stereo and use your cab merger when you want mono.
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Topic: SPEAKER WIRING SCHEMATICS (Read 15367 times)
