ADA Depot - A Forum To Support Users of ADA Amplification Gear

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Need a Schematic? Check the Vault *MP-1 Classic Schematics Just Added!!

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5   Go Down

Author Topic: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma  (Read 29021 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

rabidgerry

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2105
  • HEAVY METAL
    • Rabid Bitch of the North band facebook
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #45 on: Time Format »

Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?

I'm not going to attempt this job at all.  When it comes to doing shit with wood I go to my guy about stuff.

If I filled the holes and then I'd need a drill press to redrill and I don't have one.

This is what my luthier said:

It might be possible to fill with chemical metal and then drill and tap to the original size or possibly tap the existing holes to take bigger screws.

I've already said no to making the bolt hole (the one for the string clamp) bigger would be a nightmare, as I'd first need to drill a bigger hole in the clamp, then I'd need a bigger bolt for the clamp.  And as we know all FR bolts are the same size (yes the ones for the string clamp,) so finding a replacement should I lose one will not just be as simple as ordering up some easily found FR locking nut bolts.

If he can do the liquid metal thing and repair the hole to original size then I'll go with that, but I'd be dubious about it lasting any length of time.  Why does this shit have to so complicated!
Logged
"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

MarshallJMP

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4702
    • marshalljmpmodshop.net
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #46 on: Time Format »

Since the plate is so thin the liquid metal isn't going to work either i think.
Logged

tomy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 340
  • "To loose means trouble, to win pays double"
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #47 on: Time Format »

Men,i don't know why it is so complicated but as I understand you asked on differents websites  and most of answers remains the same
Logged
"As far back as I can remember,  I've always wanted to be a  gangster..."

ARSENAL :
https://fr.audiofanzine.com/membres/885047/products/

rabidgerry

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2105
  • HEAVY METAL
    • Rabid Bitch of the North band facebook
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #48 on: Time Format »

well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2  :lol:

MJMP I bet you are right, it will be two thin.  I'll take it to him (the luthier) next week and see what he thinks.  He was just thinking of ideas I think.  I'm sure re-drilling was ok to him as an idea as well.
Logged
"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

rnolan

  • Administrator
  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6047
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #49 on: Time Format »

Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.
Logged
Studio Rig: Stuff; Live Rig: More Stuff; Guitars: A few

tomy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 340
  • "To loose means trouble, to win pays double"
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #50 on: Time Format »

well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2  :lol:

ok, I just meant it is a real heartache for you... :'(
Logged
"As far back as I can remember,  I've always wanted to be a  gangster..."

ARSENAL :
https://fr.audiofanzine.com/membres/885047/products/

tomy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 340
  • "To loose means trouble, to win pays double"
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #51 on: Time Format »

Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.

Yeah that really can be the first solution to fix the one you prefer, without spending money,or give you time to find the good nut
Logged
"As far back as I can remember,  I've always wanted to be a  gangster..."

ARSENAL :
https://fr.audiofanzine.com/membres/885047/products/

rabidgerry

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2105
  • HEAVY METAL
    • Rabid Bitch of the North band facebook
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #52 on: Time Format »

well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2  :lol:

ok, I just meant it is a real heartache for you... :'(

Oh I know man,  I get ya  :thumb-up:  I have talked to quite a few people about it now though I suppose including squier.

Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.

Yeah that really can be the first solution to fix the one you prefer, without spending money,or give you time to find the good nut

Well I don't mind spending money getting it fixed.  It wont cost that much.  Under £100 for sure.  I have a few good replacement nuts already but as we know they don't fit properly.  They fit the screw holes and mount ok and are the correct width, they just don't meet the finger board.  I'll dismantle it again and take a photo and show you all.

I wouldn't use one of the other Squier nuts in the mean time although if I was totally desperate I would so its a good idea. 

Some of them probably are a little different spec also (believe it or not).  I have multiple versions, two with thru neck, 1999 anniversary edition (this is the one with the nut issue), a non-anniversary version with different locking trem and different neck plate, and a 22 fret version with a different locking trem and scratchplate.
Logged
"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

rnolan

  • Administrator
  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6047
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #53 on: Time Format »

Hey RG, hears a thought, albeit a bit dodgy but I recon will work and give another option, you could make a brass (or bone) shim and insert it in the gap. It can have a flat top just to make it the last contact point for each string. So I'd file it just a little oversize then screw in the new LN (which will sandwich it in place). if you make it so the string channels in the front of LN are just slightly covered, then file (carefully) the shim so there ends up a little notch for each string....
Logged
Studio Rig: Stuff; Live Rig: More Stuff; Guitars: A few

rabidgerry

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2105
  • HEAVY METAL
    • Rabid Bitch of the North band facebook
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #54 on: Time Format »


Have a luthier make me a little buffer thing, to fill the gap but allow the strings to rest at the right spot therefore allowing for correct intonation


Hey man, I came up with that idea way at the beginning  :facepalm:  I called it a buffer though (poor choice of name for what I mean perhaps).

I thought this would be a good idea as it's correcting the length of where the strings rest.  We will see what the luthier thinks.  If he can do the redrilling of the original holes only that little bit closer I would be happy with that fix.  Otherwise the buffer idea works for me.
« Last Edit: Time Format by rabidgerry »
Logged
"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

tomy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 340
  • "To loose means trouble, to win pays double"
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #55 on: Time Format »

Hey RG, MJMP, Rnolan and others... I tell you what !
I'm gonna go skiing during this week, And be sure that i'll will come back with the solution   ;D

ok guys ! keep working and see you in 10 days :metal:

tg
Logged
"As far back as I can remember,  I've always wanted to be a  gangster..."

ARSENAL :
https://fr.audiofanzine.com/membres/885047/products/

El Chiguete

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 671
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #56 on: Time Format »

Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?

Actually I was going to say the toothpick idea too but was afraid of getting a bad rep from you guys lol My old guitar teacher did that to a striped out strap button holes I had on my first guitar. Is just a simple idea: just fill out the space with the toothpick "wood" and when the screw goes back in it will make the thread on the walls and expand that extra material that is now inside the hole (toothpick) and if will be enough for a screw that is not under a lot of stress.

I say try it out, for sure it wont damage your neck.
Logged
Before you see the light, you must die!!!

'87 Kramer Stagemaster Custom
'81 Kramer Pacer Standard
custom made Les Paul
ADA MP1
Rane MPE 28
Lexicon MPX-G2
Epiphone Valve Jr. moded!!!

AFFA
Support Your Local 81

WAR_in_D

  • Guest
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #57 on: Time Format »

Guys... My apologies if I sound like a jerk here, but in the time it's taken going back and forth to even get to this point any competent luthier (or even anyone handy with a hand drill) could have had this fixed and playing by now. LOL  I wish I was closer.  I certainly don't claim to be a luthier, but this isn't rocket science and I could easily have just done it for you. 

If what I assume you're needing done is what I think it is, this really is a simple fix:

Remove the old nut
Fill existing holes (use whatever method you feel comfortable with..  toothpicks w/superglue, dowel rods, a mix of sawdust and super glue, etc..) and lightly sand until level.
Re-position new nut so it's flush with the end of the fret board, and use something sharp to mark where the new holes will be...
Find a drill bit just slightly smaller than the mounting screws to drill the new mounting holes (use a piece of masking tape on the bit to make a "depth gauge" so you don't drill too deep)
Remount the new nut.
VIOLA... You're done.

If any "luthier" tries to charge you £100 to do this job, I'd tell them to get bent!  This isn't like fixing a broken headstock. LOL 
Logged

rabidgerry

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2105
  • HEAVY METAL
    • Rabid Bitch of the North band facebook
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #58 on: Time Format »

Ok for the record, (because I already have said it in the first post WAR_in_d I merely sought others opinions on what they thought was the best solution out of the ideas I first mentioned or to see if anyone had anything better to suggest) 

  • Re-drilling I have already mentioned (first post) and to me seems most likely fix - making out it has taken a long time to get to this idea is  :crazy:
  • I will not be trying this my self as I've already said (although I have used the toothpicks fix myself El and MJMP so I see why you suggest it as it will work for some things but I'd rather have a pro do it for this problem)
  • I did not say it would cost £100 I said under £100 for sure
  • I do not have a drill press, perhaps you do WAR_in_d, so it would not be so simple for me to try it - I'll get a pro to do it


Robb Hell anyone?



« Last Edit: Time Format by rabidgerry »
Logged
"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

MarshallJMP

  • Superhero Member
  • ******
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4702
    • marshalljmpmodshop.net
Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #59 on: Time Format »

Well War has the best solution IMO.So maybe it's time to convince your girlfriend to buy that drill press for you  ;D
If it was me i would use a dremel with a small drill in it to do this.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5   Go Up