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Author Topic: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma  (Read 28937 times)

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MarshallJMP

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #30 on: Time Format »

Good,pink guitars are only suited for GLAM metal. :lol:
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tomy

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #31 on: Time Format »

Men... i tried to figured out how heavy this will sound with a Super Distorsion
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MarshallJMP

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #32 on: Time Format »

Ask portnoy he plays a hello kitty drumkit  :facepalm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aL2I--TCHM

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tomy

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #33 on: Time Format »

yes but i's got a beard !!!!!        So he's a metal head ..... HIM !
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rabidgerry

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #34 on: Time Format »

Good,pink guitars are only suited for GLAM metal. :lol:

ha yes but this is why I like the Pink guitar, it doesn't suit me but this is why is cool.  As it's unexpected.  But its a fantastic guitar.

Ok not that I ever got into Testament, but explain Alex Skolnick?
Paul Gilbert?

I'm telling ya, people knocked the guitar until the saw me in action and heard is rock like hell!  :metal:

It takes balls to get up with a guitar like that  8)
« Last Edit: Time Format by rabidgerry »
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"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
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MarshallJMP

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #35 on: Time Format »

I'm with Tony here,if you want to play a pink guitar you need at least a beard  :lol:

What do you mean " i never got into Testament" REALLY,they are an awsome band !!!!!!!!!! You really should check them out!
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tomy

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #36 on: Time Format »

Maybe you can contact :http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/?page=2
 they also have support
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rabidgerry

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #37 on: Time Format »

I'm with Tony here,if you want to play a pink guitar you need at least a beard  :lol:

What do you mean " i never got into Testament" REALLY,they are an awsome band !!!!!!!!!! You really should check them out!

I saw them live but it just didn't do it for me.  I don't like American bands so much.  I am very, very particular.  Not my fault, but I just have specific tastes.  American bands I like range from The Rods and Riot to Liege Lord and early Jag Panzer.  I never like Metallica, Megadeth, Slayer, Anthrax.  Don't be offended, they just don't suit me.  I'll take Artillery  Venom and Warfare over those bands any day.

Maybe you can contact :http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/?page=2
 they also have support

All Stewmac will tell me is what locking nuts they sell.  None of which will fit my axe.  I have tried 5 variations of other locking nuts and they all have the same problem of not mounting flush with the finger board by leaving about a 1mm gap once they have been screwed on. 
« Last Edit: Time Format by rabidgerry »
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"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

MarshallJMP

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #38 on: Time Format »

Ok no problem  :thumb-up: But i also like the Rods,Riot etc...


Say why don't you fill up the wood where the original screws go in and put in a new one and screw it in it so it fits.
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WAR_in_D

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #39 on: Time Format »

I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but why not just take the nut off and plug the existing top mount screw holes then put a new nut on there flush to the end of the fingerboard?  Once you have the existing holes plugged, you can position the nut wherever you needed to and re-drill new holes.  As long as the height and string spacing of the new nut are identical to the old one you should be good to go.

This vid shows plugging neck mounting holes, but you see what I'm getting at:



The guy in this video (Dan Erlewine) is a master at guitar repair, and has lots of great videos.  As mentioned before, if you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself.. Let a luthier do it, but this issue should be an easy fix.  :thumb-up:
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rabidgerry

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #40 on: Time Format »

Thanks guys, this is what I was thinking as well but I don't know how viable it will be to do this.  I have mentioned that in one of my ideas also way at the start but I'm no expert but if the holes and drilling wood and I do not know if it would be viable to plug the holes then redrill like literally 1mm closer.  Would there be enough wood to left after redrilling to still remain in place?  Wouldn't 1mm thin piece of wood just tear out as soon as you try putting in new screws?

You see this is what I don't know, and this is why then I think my Luthier guy might say "lets fill the top holes, and redrill from the bottom and have a rear moutning locking nut"  and we all know I don't want to do that.
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"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

WAR_in_D

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #41 on: Time Format »

Thanks guys, this is what I was thinking as well but I don't know how viable it will be to do this.  I have mentioned that in one of my ideas also way at the start but I'm no expert but if the holes and drilling wood and I do not know if it would be viable to plug the holes then redrill like literally 1mm closer.  Would there be enough wood to left after redrilling to still remain in place?  Wouldn't 1mm thin piece of wood just tear out as soon as you try putting in new screws?

You see this is what I don't know, and this is why then I think my Luthier guy might say "lets fill the top holes, and redrill from the bottom and have a rear moutning locking nut"  and we all know I don't want to do that.

I wouldn't think that they would need to do a rear mount, in fact I think that it would be overkill.  By filling the holes and essentially creating a clean slate to work with (with dowels, similar to the video but obviously much smaller in diameter), I would think that it would give a strong enough platform to just use the original method and screw in from the top.  I don't believe the screws in that position are under much of a strain, and are more just there to hold it in place as most of the tension applied would be from the top where the strings are doing over it (and pushing down).

With regard to the 1mm, unless I'm misunderstanding, you're talking about the new nut being 1mm away from the end of the fretboard so as to effect intonation correct?  Not 1mm shorter, so as to effect string height at the first fret (like you would need a shim under the nut)?  I'm only asking because I don't follow your comment about a 1mm piece of wood tearing out when the screws are put back in.  If you were to redrill and dowel the holes, it would basically be as solid as a new piece of wood.

I would take it to a luthier if you're not comfortable, I think you're "overthinking" it.. LOL
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rabidgerry

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #42 on: Time Format »


I would think that it would give a strong enough platform to just use the original method and screw in from the top.  I don't believe the screws in that position are under much of a strain, and are more just there to hold it in place as most of the tension applied would be from the top where the strings are doing over it (and pushing down).


Well may be...... that is a good point about the strings will predominatly be applying pressure downward on the nut which is good  :thumb-up:,  but I have watched a locking nut baseplate rip out of the holes in the wood before as someone screwed it in.  Also the dowel will be tiny.  I have filled holes before slightly bigger using dowels and after a while the threads go again and your back to needing to fill the hole again.  I've had this happen with old strats and their six trem pivot screws.  I'd be worried that once redrilled, there literally will only be 1mm left of the dowel which would not be enough to hold.

I'm not over thinking I'm just being cautious, I personally don't know if 1mm (could be less or a bit more) of wood filling would be secure or not which is why I am asking.  I knew that was a possible solution but I didn't know how possible, again which is why I'm asking.

The whole 1mm thing as I mentioned way back at the start is 1mm gap between the locking nut base and the fretboard which yes will mess up the intonation of the guitar.  I never mentioned the height of the nut (although if I get one of the replacements installed, the the wood will almost certainly have to be taken down because the replacements are thicker and I don't want stupidly high string height at the first fret)

I have asked my luthier if this solution is viable.

In regards to drilling holes in from the back, in my experience I have had luthiers try and talk me out of things before and also try and push THEIR solutions onto me before, I've also had them ruin guitars on me, and then had to get another luthier fix them.  So this is why I am thinking the way I am thinking.  I could honesltly see a luthier just say "oh forget about the filling the old holes and drilling new ones, what about rear mounting bolts?  This would save messing around with pluggin up holes".  It would also be quicker to do the rear bolts thing as it's just straight forward drilling with a press and no plugging up anything.

But as you all know I would be keen to avoid this at all costs.
« Last Edit: Time Format by rabidgerry »
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"whadda ya want? we want Heavy Metal"

Guitars:1986 Westone Dimension IV, 1989 Korean Squier Fat Strat Silver Series, 1998 Korean Squier Fat Strat, MIM Fender Fat Strat - FR, Squier Stagemaster Deluxe - Thru Neck x 2, Squier Stagemaster 22 Fret - 1st Gen, 1999 Squier Showmaster - Anniversary Edition, Squier Showmaster, Tokai FV40 Flying V

Effects:  Ada Mp1, Peavey Rockmaster, Boss GX700 Boss SX700 * Amps:   Rocktron Velocity 300 - Koch ATR4502 - Peavey Classic 50/50
Cabs: 4 x Bugera 2 x 12"
Midi Controller: Behringer FCB1010

MarshallJMP

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #43 on: Time Format »

Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?
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tomy

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Re: Locking Nut Replacement Dilemma
« Reply #44 on: Time Format »

Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?

"re you kidding me??? >:(
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