ADA Depot - A Forum To Support Users of ADA Amplification Gear
Non ADA Gear => Guitars => Topic started by: rabidgerry on January 26, 2016, 03:44:04 AM
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Ok guy's this is the topic I wanted to bring up but wasn't sure about. Well it's more of a problem I have.
My Pink Squier Stagemaster that I'm now known for now apparently :facepalm: (yes fans ask me where it is from time to time at gigs!!)
is currently out of action.
The reason being:
I cannot find a replacmenet locking nut for this guitar because the screw hole for one of the locking bolts has threaded due to wear and tear. Sounds silly and like a small issue right? Well it's not. I have tried about 4-5 different locking nuts and not one of them fits this guitar.
Now I can get a locking nut that will fit in regards to width (41mm suits although the original locking nut is a tiny bit smaller).
And also I can get any of these locking nuts to screw into the mounting holes. However........................... :facepalm: :dunno:
The holes are positioned to far away from the edge of the fretboard for these replacement nuts to mount flush against the rosewood. They leave about a 1mm gap!! Which means the the original nut must be slightly broader or else have the holes drilled within a different place on the steel baseplate.
Either way this is a major issue stopping me play one of my fav guitars. I needs your ideas.
Things I have thought off:
Fill the original mounting holes and have them redrilled top side same as the original.
Fill in the original holes, but have a rear mounting nut installed (I am very reluctant to do this.)
Have a luthier make me a little buffer thing, to fill the gap but allow the strings to rest at the right spot therefore allowing for correct intonation
I really dunno the possibilities of what I have mentioned here but you guys might have ideas and experience! Would should be a simple swap out of hardware has turned into a nightmare!
PS I have tried Gotoh 41mm front mounting locking nut, Original Floyd Rose front mounting locking nut, and a couple of no namers.
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Is your squier old ? if not maybe you can ask the support to get the good replacement nuts ?
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Is your squier old ? if not maybe you can ask the support to get the good replacement nuts ?
I actually contacted Squier, they said they had no left over parts for it :(
It's 1999 so 17 years.
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Can you post a few pics?
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pictures of the guitar? Or pictures of the old nut or replacement nuts not fitting into the correct spot behind the neck?
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Hey RG, mmm been this place a few times, all the solutions have different threads... best IMO is to plug the holes (not that hard, a bit of a pain though) and fix it. I understand the reluctance to do this. Your other choice is to get someone to re-core your holes and give you hardware that fits screws works. At the end of the day, there should be someone who can make you a replacement, but it will no doubt cost.
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Hey RG, mmm been this place a few times, all the solutions have different threads... best IMO is to plug the holes (not that hard, a bit of a pain though) and fix it. I understand the reluctance to do this. Your other choice is to get someone to re-core your holes and give you hardware that fits screws works. At the end of the day, there should be someone who can make you a replacement, but it will no doubt cost.
Don't follow you man :dunno:, when you say plug the holes, do you mean plug the holes of the original locking nut base?
The only reluctance I have with any solution is if I have the original screw holes filled in, and the new holes are drilled from the rear and therefore allowing me to install a rear mounting locking nut. The floyd rose locking nut I have allows me to install from either the top or the bottom.
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See PM, lets talk :wave:
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All the FR locking nuts I've played with screw from the rear (to attach to the guitar), I had a gotoh that screwed from the top but that one sat behind the nut, The FR locking shit is (becomes) the nut. I'm not across any FR lock nut that screws from the top ????. But hey you guys never cease to amaise me with whats out there..
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just to show you an example
check this page of original FR locking nuts. These are standard and can be mounted from either side so long as you have screws to either mount top or bottom. The FR guy on their website told me it is standard now to sell their locking nuts with only mounting screws for the top, although they are capable of being mounted from the bottom (but then you'd need the correct bolts for that). I have saw then for sale with mounting screws for both top and bottom. The gotoh locking nut I bought brand new only allows for top side mounting, a completely seperate model is required for rear mounting.
http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=67 (http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=67)
The guitar I have the issue with is top mounting also. I have guitars with rear mounting though and also behind the nut locking but on seperate blocks which means they still have an actual regular nut as well.
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The only 2 I've bumped into are the one that came on my Anderson, and and the schaller FR I put on my tele. they both mount from underneath/behind (2 Allen bolts) and totally replace/become the nut. The gotoh I had for my tele before that had a behind the nut locking thing that mounted from the top, worked ok...
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Say RG,what is actually busted?Do you have a pic?
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the left hand side clamp and bolt can no longer screw into the hole because the base plate hole has threaded. I can take a picture but you wont see very much. I'll take one and show exactly where I mean though.
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You mean one of those 3 screwes?Ok i get it.
What we do at work if something like this happends is we drill out the hole.Normally these screws are M4 (in a floyd it is).
So drill it out with a 4.2mm drill put and M5 thread in it.And we have special "screws" that have on the outside M5 thread and on the inside M4 thread.Also we use a special kind of loctite glue to keep it in place.Works perfect.
Now the only downside coult be that the plate isn't thick enough to hold it.But it exists,so maybe you could try it.I think you can find at any good hardware store.And if needed i could send you a few.
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the hole closest to the bottom is stripped, its the hole the bolt for the clamp screws into. If I drill a hole bigger in the base plate I'll need to drill a hole in the clamp too?
sounds crazy
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/themetalmartyr/P2020227.jpg) (http://s86.photobucket.com/user/themetalmartyr/media/P2020227.jpg.html)
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No no need to drill in the clamp.Look at this video.We have the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQHRB2ElZJ0
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a new lock nut ? (e.g. http://www.realparts.com.au/floyd-rose-parts/locking-nuts.html)
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HI RG if you don't feel it, don't do it... I mean just go to a luthier and let him fix it. the locking nut + replacement, i'm sure it's 15 minute work and he is gonna put the right nut. I'm sure it won't be so expensive.
Don't ruined your axe fixing by yourself
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a new lock nut ? (e.g. http://www.realparts.com.au/floyd-rose-parts/locking-nuts.html)
I think you missed the whole beginning of the post RN :facepalm:
The issue is that I have bought 5 different replacements already and they do not mount flush with the rose wood leaving a 1mm gap. See the first post for more details.
If it was as easy as swapping I would have I'm not mental, for me the issue wasn't fix the old locking nut it was trying to find a replacement. But since I cannot find a replacement perhaps the old one can be fixed as MJMP suggests.
HI RG if you don't feel it, don't do it... I mean just go to a luthier and let him fix it. the locking nut + replacement, i'm sure it's 15 minute work and he is gonna put the right nut. I'm sure it won't be so expensive.
Don't ruined your axe fixing by yourself
Well that's just it not sure what he will suggest either, but I have toi check what MJMP is saying first. I can see the luthier saying "fill he holes, redrill from rear and install a rear mounting locking nut."
I thought my idea of creating a shim to fill the gap left by one of the replacments was a good idea, this would fill the gap and allow for correct string length and intonation.
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Hey RG sorry, my bad, just re-read your initial post and I see your problem and totally empathise.
I watched the vid MJMP posted and it looked good but I'm thinking there may not be enough thickness to do the thread plug (MJMP, do they make them for such a "thin" hole ?) if they do then this is the best option IMO
Or you could go with an alan bolt next size up and re tap the thread for it, but as you said then you'd have to expand the hole in the clamp block (not an easy drill, best use a drill press with good clamps, or a rat tail file), however, this would work (and you might get away with not re-tapping the thread).
Or you could fill the mounting screw holes and fit a new locknut (from either the top or from behind, but as the original holes are so close they would need to be filled (plugged)) and also you haven't been able to find one "exactly" the right width, so a bit of work and still not optimal.
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Yeah the redrilling and mounting from the rear is the one I want to avoid. If a Luthier could fill the original holes and then redrill a little closer I would be happier with that.
The replacement locking nuts are all ok width wise (41mm ish). These are fine. However its where they have their mounting holes are drilled on the replacements baseplate. They seem more central which means when they mount, the holes actually take the plate about 1mm away from the rosewood.
Why Squier had such a random bit of hardware I will never know. Whats even more annoying is I have about 5 other of these same guitars (variations and sister models etc). So the problem might occur with them :facepalm:
Lookin at MJMPs video
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Well R,the thickness also concerns me a bit.And using a bigger screw won't work i guess,then he would have to drill out the clamp also.
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Well R,the thickness also concerns me a bit.And using a bigger screw won't work i guess,then he would have to drill out the clamp also.
I watched the video, yeah I don't think I could get this to work for such a small and shallow piece of metal.
It crossed my mind to perhaps fill the hole with that putty that goes as hard as steel and then re drill this and then have it threaded with the locking bolt again. But I dunno if the new threads would hold under such pressure. I did this one time before when I drilled to big a hole in a pickup mounting leg, it worked a treat.
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OK so let me propose an ather way,
-unscrew the whole locking nut
-plug the hole on the rosewood (example : when a screw of the pickguard doesn't match because the hole is too big, you can use a toothpick with glue to plug the hole, and cut what exceed)
- screw one of your brand new locking nut.
make sense ??
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Another idea : get success with RBOTN, have a deal with Jackson, or ESP... and have a signature model !
call your model "Dilemma"
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no way not those brands ;D
They don't make any guitars I'm into. The ultimate guitar for me is a Fender HM. Probably will never get one of them as they are expensive.
The guitar that needs fixed is one of my fav's. Put a Super Distortion in there and SHIT GOT GOOD! I have a Super Distortion 2 for the neck now but waiting to install that.
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Another idea : get success with RBOTN, have a deal with Jackson, or ESP... and have a signature model !
call your model "Dilemma"
Well RG that's a great idea!!!! i would go for it!! :lol:
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oh hang on I'll just click my finger shall I
(click) oh what do you know?? f**king Endorsement deal with Tokai and Hamer! Nice :)
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:lol:
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just burnt all my guitars there now I have these endorsement deals :facepalm:
don't need a stupid pink Squier guitar that once belonged to some guy who died and then his relatives sold it on!
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Good,pink guitars are only suited for GLAM metal. :lol:
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Men... i tried to figured out how heavy this will sound with a Super Distorsion
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Ask portnoy he plays a hello kitty drumkit :facepalm:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aL2I--TCHM
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yes but i's got a beard !!!!! So he's a metal head ..... HIM !
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Good,pink guitars are only suited for GLAM metal. :lol:
ha yes but this is why I like the Pink guitar, it doesn't suit me but this is why is cool. As it's unexpected. But its a fantastic guitar.
Ok not that I ever got into Testament, but explain Alex Skolnick?
Paul Gilbert?
I'm telling ya, people knocked the guitar until the saw me in action and heard is rock like hell! :metal:
It takes balls to get up with a guitar like that 8)
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I'm with Tony here,if you want to play a pink guitar you need at least a beard :lol:
What do you mean " i never got into Testament" REALLY,they are an awsome band !!!!!!!!!! You really should check them out!
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Maybe you can contact :http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/?page=2
they also have support
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I'm with Tony here,if you want to play a pink guitar you need at least a beard :lol:
What do you mean " i never got into Testament" REALLY,they are an awsome band !!!!!!!!!! You really should check them out!
I saw them live but it just didn't do it for me. I don't like American bands so much. I am very, very particular. Not my fault, but I just have specific tastes. American bands I like range from The Rods and Riot to Liege Lord and early Jag Panzer. I never like Metallica, Megadeth, Slayer, Anthrax. Don't be offended, they just don't suit me. I'll take Artillery Venom and Warfare over those bands any day.
Maybe you can contact :http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/?page=2
they also have support
All Stewmac will tell me is what locking nuts they sell. None of which will fit my axe. I have tried 5 variations of other locking nuts and they all have the same problem of not mounting flush with the finger board by leaving about a 1mm gap once they have been screwed on.
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Ok no problem :thumb-up: But i also like the Rods,Riot etc...
Say why don't you fill up the wood where the original screws go in and put in a new one and screw it in it so it fits.
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I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but why not just take the nut off and plug the existing top mount screw holes then put a new nut on there flush to the end of the fingerboard? Once you have the existing holes plugged, you can position the nut wherever you needed to and re-drill new holes. As long as the height and string spacing of the new nut are identical to the old one you should be good to go.
This vid shows plugging neck mounting holes, but you see what I'm getting at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgtgcIlFGrs
The guy in this video (Dan Erlewine) is a master at guitar repair, and has lots of great videos. As mentioned before, if you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself.. Let a luthier do it, but this issue should be an easy fix. :thumb-up:
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Thanks guys, this is what I was thinking as well but I don't know how viable it will be to do this. I have mentioned that in one of my ideas also way at the start but I'm no expert but if the holes and drilling wood and I do not know if it would be viable to plug the holes then redrill like literally 1mm closer. Would there be enough wood to left after redrilling to still remain in place? Wouldn't 1mm thin piece of wood just tear out as soon as you try putting in new screws?
You see this is what I don't know, and this is why then I think my Luthier guy might say "lets fill the top holes, and redrill from the bottom and have a rear moutning locking nut" and we all know I don't want to do that.
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Thanks guys, this is what I was thinking as well but I don't know how viable it will be to do this. I have mentioned that in one of my ideas also way at the start but I'm no expert but if the holes and drilling wood and I do not know if it would be viable to plug the holes then redrill like literally 1mm closer. Would there be enough wood to left after redrilling to still remain in place? Wouldn't 1mm thin piece of wood just tear out as soon as you try putting in new screws?
You see this is what I don't know, and this is why then I think my Luthier guy might say "lets fill the top holes, and redrill from the bottom and have a rear moutning locking nut" and we all know I don't want to do that.
I wouldn't think that they would need to do a rear mount, in fact I think that it would be overkill. By filling the holes and essentially creating a clean slate to work with (with dowels, similar to the video but obviously much smaller in diameter), I would think that it would give a strong enough platform to just use the original method and screw in from the top. I don't believe the screws in that position are under much of a strain, and are more just there to hold it in place as most of the tension applied would be from the top where the strings are doing over it (and pushing down).
With regard to the 1mm, unless I'm misunderstanding, you're talking about the new nut being 1mm away from the end of the fretboard so as to effect intonation correct? Not 1mm shorter, so as to effect string height at the first fret (like you would need a shim under the nut)? I'm only asking because I don't follow your comment about a 1mm piece of wood tearing out when the screws are put back in. If you were to redrill and dowel the holes, it would basically be as solid as a new piece of wood.
I would take it to a luthier if you're not comfortable, I think you're "overthinking" it.. LOL
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I would think that it would give a strong enough platform to just use the original method and screw in from the top. I don't believe the screws in that position are under much of a strain, and are more just there to hold it in place as most of the tension applied would be from the top where the strings are doing over it (and pushing down).
Well may be...... that is a good point about the strings will predominatly be applying pressure downward on the nut which is good :thumb-up:, but I have watched a locking nut baseplate rip out of the holes in the wood before as someone screwed it in. Also the dowel will be tiny. I have filled holes before slightly bigger using dowels and after a while the threads go again and your back to needing to fill the hole again. I've had this happen with old strats and their six trem pivot screws. I'd be worried that once redrilled, there literally will only be 1mm left of the dowel which would not be enough to hold.
I'm not over thinking I'm just being cautious, I personally don't know if 1mm (could be less or a bit more) of wood filling would be secure or not which is why I am asking. I knew that was a possible solution but I didn't know how possible, again which is why I'm asking.
The whole 1mm thing as I mentioned way back at the start is 1mm gap between the locking nut base and the fretboard which yes will mess up the intonation of the guitar. I never mentioned the height of the nut (although if I get one of the replacements installed, the the wood will almost certainly have to be taken down because the replacements are thicker and I don't want stupidly high string height at the first fret)
I have asked my luthier if this solution is viable.
In regards to drilling holes in from the back, in my experience I have had luthiers try and talk me out of things before and also try and push THEIR solutions onto me before, I've also had them ruin guitars on me, and then had to get another luthier fix them. So this is why I am thinking the way I am thinking. I could honesltly see a luthier just say "oh forget about the filling the old holes and drilling new ones, what about rear mounting bolts? This would save messing around with pluggin up holes". It would also be quicker to do the rear bolts thing as it's just straight forward drilling with a press and no plugging up anything.
But as you all know I would be keen to avoid this at all costs.
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Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?
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Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?
"re you kidding me??? >:(
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Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?
I'm not going to attempt this job at all. When it comes to doing shit with wood I go to my guy about stuff.
If I filled the holes and then I'd need a drill press to redrill and I don't have one.
This is what my luthier said:
It might be possible to fill with chemical metal and then drill and tap to the original size or possibly tap the existing holes to take bigger screws.
I've already said no to making the bolt hole (the one for the string clamp) bigger would be a nightmare, as I'd first need to drill a bigger hole in the clamp, then I'd need a bigger bolt for the clamp. And as we know all FR bolts are the same size (yes the ones for the string clamp,) so finding a replacement should I lose one will not just be as simple as ordering up some easily found FR locking nut bolts.
If he can do the liquid metal thing and repair the hole to original size then I'll go with that, but I'd be dubious about it lasting any length of time. Why does this shit have to so complicated!
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Since the plate is so thin the liquid metal isn't going to work either i think.
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Men,i don't know why it is so complicated but as I understand you asked on differents websites and most of answers remains the same
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well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2 :lol:
MJMP I bet you are right, it will be two thin. I'll take it to him (the luthier) next week and see what he thinks. He was just thinking of ideas I think. I'm sure re-drilling was ok to him as an idea as well.
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Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.
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well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2 :lol:
ok, I just meant it is a real heartache for you... :'(
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Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.
Yeah that really can be the first solution to fix the one you prefer, without spending money,or give you time to find the good nut
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well that's not true I asked on here and I asked on Squier Talk forum so that's only 2 :lol:
ok, I just meant it is a real heartache for you... :'(
Oh I know man, I get ya :thumb-up: I have talked to quite a few people about it now though I suppose including squier.
Hey RG, since you have a couple of these stagemasters, could you get a locknut from one of them and do the plug/re-drill to one that's not your fav ? Just a thought.
Yeah that really can be the first solution to fix the one you prefer, without spending money,or give you time to find the good nut
Well I don't mind spending money getting it fixed. It wont cost that much. Under £100 for sure. I have a few good replacement nuts already but as we know they don't fit properly. They fit the screw holes and mount ok and are the correct width, they just don't meet the finger board. I'll dismantle it again and take a photo and show you all.
I wouldn't use one of the other Squier nuts in the mean time although if I was totally desperate I would so its a good idea.
Some of them probably are a little different spec also (believe it or not). I have multiple versions, two with thru neck, 1999 anniversary edition (this is the one with the nut issue), a non-anniversary version with different locking trem and different neck plate, and a 22 fret version with a different locking trem and scratchplate.
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Hey RG, hears a thought, albeit a bit dodgy but I recon will work and give another option, you could make a brass (or bone) shim and insert it in the gap. It can have a flat top just to make it the last contact point for each string. So I'd file it just a little oversize then screw in the new LN (which will sandwich it in place). if you make it so the string channels in the front of LN are just slightly covered, then file (carefully) the shim so there ends up a little notch for each string....
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Have a luthier make me a little buffer thing, to fill the gap but allow the strings to rest at the right spot therefore allowing for correct intonation
Hey man, I came up with that idea way at the beginning :facepalm: I called it a buffer though (poor choice of name for what I mean perhaps).
I thought this would be a good idea as it's correcting the length of where the strings rest. We will see what the luthier thinks. If he can do the redrilling of the original holes only that little bit closer I would be happy with that fix. Otherwise the buffer idea works for me.
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Hey RG, MJMP, Rnolan and others... I tell you what !
I'm gonna go skiing during this week, And be sure that i'll will come back with the solution ;D
ok guys ! keep working and see you in 10 days :metal:
tg
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Why don't you use toothpicks or wood filler?
Actually I was going to say the toothpick idea too but was afraid of getting a bad rep from you guys lol My old guitar teacher did that to a striped out strap button holes I had on my first guitar. Is just a simple idea: just fill out the space with the toothpick "wood" and when the screw goes back in it will make the thread on the walls and expand that extra material that is now inside the hole (toothpick) and if will be enough for a screw that is not under a lot of stress.
I say try it out, for sure it wont damage your neck.
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Guys... My apologies if I sound like a jerk here, but in the time it's taken going back and forth to even get to this point any competent luthier (or even anyone handy with a hand drill) could have had this fixed and playing by now. LOL I wish I was closer. I certainly don't claim to be a luthier, but this isn't rocket science and I could easily have just done it for you.
If what I assume you're needing done is what I think it is, this really is a simple fix:
Remove the old nut
Fill existing holes (use whatever method you feel comfortable with.. toothpicks w/superglue, dowel rods, a mix of sawdust and super glue, etc..) and lightly sand until level.
Re-position new nut so it's flush with the end of the fret board, and use something sharp to mark where the new holes will be...
Find a drill bit just slightly smaller than the mounting screws to drill the new mounting holes (use a piece of masking tape on the bit to make a "depth gauge" so you don't drill too deep)
Remount the new nut.
VIOLA... You're done.
If any "luthier" tries to charge you £100 to do this job, I'd tell them to get bent! This isn't like fixing a broken headstock. LOL
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Ok for the record, (because I already have said it in the first post WAR_in_d I merely sought others opinions on what they thought was the best solution out of the ideas I first mentioned or to see if anyone had anything better to suggest)
- Re-drilling I have already mentioned (first post) and to me seems most likely fix - making out it has taken a long time to get to this idea is :crazy:
- I will not be trying this my self as I've already said (although I have used the toothpicks fix myself El and MJMP so I see why you suggest it as it will work for some things but I'd rather have a pro do it for this problem)
- I did not say it would cost £100 I said under £100 for sure
- I do not have a drill press, perhaps you do WAR_in_d, so it would not be so simple for me to try it - I'll get a pro to do it
Robb Hell anyone?
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Well War has the best solution IMO.So maybe it's time to convince your girlfriend to buy that drill press for you ;D
If it was me i would use a dremel with a small drill in it to do this.
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Ok for the record, (because I already have said it in the first post WAR_in_d I merely sought others opinions on what they thought was the best solution out of the ideas I first mentioned or to see if anyone had anything better to suggest)
- Re-drilling I have already mentioned (first post) and to me seems most likely fix - making out it has taken a long time to get to this idea is :crazy:
- I will not be trying this my self as I've already said (although I have used the toothpicks fix myself El and MJMP so I see why you suggest it as it will work for some things but I'd rather have a pro do it for this problem)
- I did not say it would cost £100 I said under £100 for sure
- I do not have a drill press, perhaps you do WAR_in_d, so it would not be so simple for me to try it - I'll get a pro to do it
Robb Hell anyone?
Point by point:
1. I never said we're just now coming around to the drill and fill idea. I'm well aware that you said that in your first post, I heard you the first time you said it.. I'm just pointing out that in the time it's taken for what I feel is the obvious solution to make itself apparent, this could have been fixed already.
2. I also said that if you didn't feel comfortable doing a job like this yourself, take it to a professional.... or a local girl/boy scout, as they probably have the skills needed to fix this problem.
3. All I was saying here, is if someone tries to charge you £100 for a job like this or even anything close to that.. You need to run out of there as quickly as possible.
4. No, I don't have a drill press.. you don't need it for this type of job. Again, not rocket science here. This is a very simple fix.
Not sure what Robb Hell means, so I guess I'll leave that one alone. :thumb-up:
Anyway, I'm out of this convo and good luck... Again, my apologies if what I said came across as being a d*ck. I just say what I'm thinking usually, and since tone and inflection are lost with the typed word many times it comes across that I'm being an @$$.. I just have a very dry sense of humor, and I'm pretty "matter of fact". To put it in my perspective.... This thread is like six guys standing around in the dark trying to figure out the best way to turn on a light switch, and then another person walks in and just flips it on. The "solution" seems to obvious to me, and I find it funny this thread has gone to four pages (CRAP, this post just started a fifth page!!?!!) but yet the problem and a determination on how to solve it still remains. LOL
Later.. :cheers:
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Hey RG. At least, a good luthier is abble to create a specific locking nut that matches with your guitar : one of my bass is a 6 string headless without double ball system. It is handmade and works very well (I'll send a pic later)
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1. I never said we're just now coming around to the drill and fill idea. I'm well aware that you said that in your first post, I heard you the first time you said it.. I'm just pointing out that in the time it's taken for what I feel is the obvious solution to make itself apparent, this could have been fixed already.
You implied it
2. I also said that if you didn't feel comfortable doing a job like this yourself, take it to a professional.... or a local girl/boy scout, as they probably have the skills needed to fix this problem.
No need to be patronizing - AND I have already said I would not attempt the drilling.
3. All I was saying here, is if someone tries to charge you £100 for a job like this or even anything close to that.. You need to run out of there as quickly as possible.
Yeah I agree
4. No, I don't have a drill press.. you don't need it for this type of job. Again, not rocket science here. This is a very simple fix.
Yeah sure I could drill it myself, but I wouldn't risk it and I think that' sensible enough to be honest. If you would not use a drill press for this that's up to you, I wouldn't trust my own drilling to get it straight and the right depth. And that's fair enough because I don't mind paying a luthier to do it for me.
I just have a very dry sense of humor, and I'm pretty "matter of fact".
No you're just a bit rude
This thread is like six guys standing around in the dark trying to figure out the best way to turn on a light switch, and then another person walks in and just flips it on.
Well we like to discuss things on this forum, talk it out, have a bit of banter while we're at it. You certainly were not the guy who came in and just flipped on the light switch and provided us all with an answer, no need to be so arrogant and condescending about the participants in this post either.
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so turns out my luthier guy really thinks he can fix the nut, no drilling new holes. He is a chemist also so I think he's gonna alchemy some shit up and fix the existing steel locking nut. Sooooooooooooooooo that'll be nice, then I can get the pink metal machine back in action!
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Hey RG, do tell how he goes (I'm sure you will). Will be nice to get PMM back on the grid :thumb-up:
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so turns out my luthier guy really thinks he can fix the n8ut, no drilling new holes. He is a chemist also so I think he's gonna alchemy some shit up and fix the existing steel locking nut. Sooooooooooooooooo that'll be nice, then I can get the pink metal machine back in action!
As soon as you get your pink axe, you' ll need leather stretch pant !
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Now now Tomy, he may have a mo, but leather pants...??
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I'm trying to think why I bought this guitar in the first place :???: Pink is not a colour I like normally but it looks great on that guitar for some reason. I bought it as I knew it was rare and it was going for a stupid price and it was in near mint condition.
And to top it all off, it sounds amazing! Well to me it does.
I considered leather trousers once, but I think the tight jeans are my trademark and I should not deviate! :thumb-up:
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well the nut is in the hands of the guitar witch doctor. Lets see what his solution is to the issue. He is definitely attempting to fix the threads on the base plate.
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Well War has the best solution IMO.So maybe it's time to convince your girlfriend to buy that drill press for you ;D
If it was me i would use a dremel with a small drill in it to do this.
Uh it was my suggestion way at the beginning of this post and he was quite condescending about everyone on this thread MJMP.
And no I would never do this on my own guitar I would let a pro do it, I would never f*ck about with wood on my guitar, it's not my forté.
And it seems the guitar luthier I go to fixed it without redrilling. He used chemical filler and re tapped the nut. It now works.
And the cost, under £100 was what I thought it would be............under £100 was what it was.
£20 in fact.
He said if it ever goes again to move up a screw size but I personally am unaware of bigger locking nut screw bolts. Perhaps he knows of some I could use. Oh well it's fixed now, I shall keep it oiled to prevent further stripping.
Does anyone else here oil bath their FR or locking trems regularly or any other method of deep clean for their trem systems?
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I just give it a light clean with lemon oil as part of the clean of the whole guitar (not the FB) when I change strings. I do make sure the lock nut and bolts go back in the same spot and I'm careful not to over tighten them.
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That locking nut looks just like the ones on my Washburns. They are top mounted. Maybe try Washburn Customer tech service to see if they can sell you one or point you in the right direction.