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Lets get Technical > All Things Tube All about preamp and power amp Tubes.

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Messages - rnolan

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Buy & Sell ADA Gear / Re: Some ADA Gear for Sale
« on: Today at 01:47 AM »
TerraSaw seems missing in action  :dunno: , haven't heard back from him re the classic  :facepalm: .
I have a US B500B if that interests you.  It's with MJMP in Belgium, all fixed and ready to go, unfortunately postage is expensive as it quite heavy.

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Today at 01:43 AM »
Hey John, plenty to read on 3TM and other MP1 mods in the MP1 threads.  MDRT makes a huge difference, really opens up the dynamics.  3TM (from what others say) is great if you want more gain but you loose the cleans. Eg MJMP uses 3TM for distorted stuff and a MP2 just for cleans.
What do you need/want them to do ?  what style etc.

Discussions / Re: Guitar Playing Fatigue
« on: Today at 01:18 AM »
Apart from SCs wise words regarding fret level, the place to start with a setup (before going anywhere near the action/string heights) is to get your neck relief right (for you).  Like SC I like a very flat neck.  To check your neck relief, with the guitar at pitch, on bottom E (and later top E) press down the first fret and also the fret the neck joins the body (probably 16th on a squire, 12th on a classical).  This forms a straight edge (bottom of the string) over the frets.  Rule of thumb is you need about a business card gap above 5th, 7th, 9th frets.  But business cards vary in thickness and neck relief is a very subjective and personal thing.  But you do need some relief as strings spin when you pluck them. Adjust the truss rod in small increments (tighten to reduce relief, loosen to increase) and retune and check again in between each adjustments.
Once your happy with the relief you can adjust the action height. I stopped bothering to measure it years ago, I adjust the height down until it buzzes then raise it until the buzz is tolerable (I don't mind a little buzz, you don't hear it (but each to their own)). Now this process (for me) takes a while of tooing and frowing, retuning in between, making sure notes aren't buzzing out and sustain appropriately. It takes longer on a strat bridge as you do each string individually.  Once that's done I play it a bit and adjust the top strings (if required) so they feel right under my fingers (eg I may raise the top E a little so it feels right transitioning from the B).  Then I do the intonation (repeated retunes as required) and check it all again, the intonation adjustment changes the action height.  Then I let the guitar settle for a while and check it all again, and also after a week I've found the instrument settles some more and then it gets the final adjustment.
I play quite hard with stiff picks (Dunlop tortex purple) I don't want the pick to flex.  I use 10 - 46 DR tight wounds on most guitars, 11 - 52 sometimes on a shorter (= less string tension) Gibson scale length, particularly for dropped D tuning.  I find I can belt chords as hard as I what (and I do  >:D ) without buzz.  I can't use lighter string gauges than 10 - 46 as the chords go out of tune when I belt them and the notes have less body.

Well I know lugging the extra gear is a pain  :facepalm: but IMHO the sound is worth it  :thumb-up: , I always run in stereo although I get the lugging hassles  :facepalm: :facepalm: . (BTW should see what MJMP takes to a gig  >:D :whoohoo!: )

You can change the neck angle with shims, using wedge shims will keep the contact with the body although while ideal not strictly necessary.  Remember when fender went to 3 screw mount and an adjusting screw so you could tilt the neck to accommodate different bridge angles for those who wanted up and down whammy.  They later went back to 4 screws (as the 3 screw set up can lead to neck twist) but kept the adjustment.
Scale length is important as is neck widths as they predicate where and how wide (and saddle spacing) the bridge needs to be.  ie if you put a standard strat bridge on a squire bullet, the strings will go off the side of the neck as the bullet has a narrower neck than standard strat.  Strat body blanks are (generally) pre drilled and routed.  So this defines the neck width and scale length required (though most are 25.5").  Some "super strats" use les paul length 24.75" which means the bridge/saddles need to move toward the neck and there isn't usually enough travel in the bridge saddle intonation adjustment to accommodate that (and moving a pre drilled and routed bridge is not trivial  :facepalm: ).

And of course you can combine the 2 methods, ie use the serial connection and put a second FX unit in the MP2 loop

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Do you think it may be component related ? as in a batch of whatever bit(s) have gone off over time and they were only in a run of units  :dunno:

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Hey MJMP, This is an interesting area...  seems to be age related (in one sense) but I have 4 MP2s and they are all fine (2 with noise mod, 2 stock), as Julius Sumner Miller said (if anyone remembers him) "why is it so  :dunno: "

Hey RG, Told you LoL, I'd be the same if I had MJMPs electronic wizardry/understanding,  :whoohoo!: .  This looks like a really nice unit, wouldn't mind one myself (I also (as you know) have a rockman(esk) soft spot).  Your sustainer probably just needs re capping (particularly from what I read when you first went down this rabbit hole and I started to consider doing the X100 refresh, then I lent it to Mike and have forgotten about it), I'd send it to MJMP as well and get him to do his thing  :whoohoo!:

Hey Adam, great to hear from you BTW  :thumb-up: .  My 2 cents worth, Mod it to your liking and keep it.  Mod it to what you want, if that's exactly the same as your other shovels (no disrespect intended), then they can be a guide for the luthier.  If, as you say, the saddles are maxed out, then the neck angle is wrong  :nono: , but if you like the neck angle  :dunno: , then one choice is to deepen the neck pocket (as you've suggested).  Another approach would be to shim the rear (toward neck end) with an old bit of credit card (or make a nice angled maple shim (or buy one from StuMac etc)).  This will shallow the neck/body angle and bring the saddles into adjustable range and not require routing (like what you have to do to fix most (well allot in my experience) of fender guitars).  Take it to you guy and talk through the options.  Or sell it if you think some like a guitar that's maxed out its adjustment range.. to me it's bad manufacture/design.
I just did a quick search on the price of that model, it's a cheaper end of town guitar ~$700 AUD entry level (again not meaning to deride it in any way and please correct me if I'm wrong), to me this is similar to taking a Fender Squire or Epiphone and making it how I want (like my Squire bullet strat, MIJ Profile Tele and Epiphone SG; all cheap(ish) and now how I like them).

Hey RG, I'm sure MJMP is up for it  :thumb-up: , he'll enjoy it LoL, and it's not some random piece of kit, it's a very cool preamp  :whoohoo!: .  Also there is a bunch of stuff going on with this unit, just get him to sort it for you.  Removing the back jack may not be wise  :dunno: :nono: (though replacing it is), have a look on the schematic how it's interconnected with the front jack, definitely MJMP territory IMHO.

Hey Hanneman213, good advice from SC, using an amps loop return (typically) feeds straight into the poweramp stage and bypasses the amps preamp (desirable with ADA preamps). Down side is it's mono so you need 2 amps for best effect.  With fender twin you'll need to run into its preamp stage (as no loop).  So you'd use the clean channel and keep the input gain low.  Also the fenders eq stage is in the signal chain.  In the back of the new(ish) A/DA App 1 manual are some (good) suggested eq settings for various amps (manual available from A/DA site and also here in App1 area).  You want to set the eq as flat as possible.  Different amps do their tone/eq stack differently so it's not necessarily intuitive how to make it as flat as possible (which is what you want).
So I'd take the fender twin for one channel and Bugera loop return for the other and tweak until it blows your mind  >:D , you can also add a bit of the Twin's reverb (spring reverb sounds quite nice)

Hey jimnastic, great tips  :thumb-up: many thanks for that and welcome  :whoohoo!: . When you retube your MP2, I highly recommend some Mullard long Plate re-issues, they work really really well in MP2s  >:D

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Let us know how you go, condolences BTW  :facepalm: :wave: , I know the feeling.

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