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Messages - rnolan

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You can change the neck angle with shims, using wedge shims will keep the contact with the body although while ideal not strictly necessary.  Remember when fender went to 3 screw mount and an adjusting screw so you could tilt the neck to accommodate different bridge angles for those who wanted up and down whammy.  They later went back to 4 screws (as the 3 screw set up can lead to neck twist) but kept the adjustment.
Scale length is important as is neck widths as they predicate where and how wide (and saddle spacing) the bridge needs to be.  ie if you put a standard strat bridge on a squire bullet, the strings will go off the side of the neck as the bullet has a narrower neck than standard strat.  Strat body blanks are (generally) pre drilled and routed.  So this defines the neck width and scale length required (though most are 25.5").  Some "super strats" use les paul length 24.75" which means the bridge/saddles need to move toward the neck and there isn't usually enough travel in the bridge saddle intonation adjustment to accommodate that (and moving a pre drilled and routed bridge is not trivial  :facepalm: ).

And of course you can combine the 2 methods, ie use the serial connection and put a second FX unit in the MP2 loop

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Do you think it may be component related ? as in a batch of whatever bit(s) have gone off over time and they were only in a run of units  :dunno:

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Hey MJMP, This is an interesting area...  seems to be age related (in one sense) but I have 4 MP2s and they are all fine (2 with noise mod, 2 stock), as Julius Sumner Miller said (if anyone remembers him) "why is it so  :dunno: "

Hey RG, Told you LoL, I'd be the same if I had MJMPs electronic wizardry/understanding,  :whoohoo!: .  This looks like a really nice unit, wouldn't mind one myself (I also (as you know) have a rockman(esk) soft spot).  Your sustainer probably just needs re capping (particularly from what I read when you first went down this rabbit hole and I started to consider doing the X100 refresh, then I lent it to Mike and have forgotten about it), I'd send it to MJMP as well and get him to do his thing  :whoohoo!:

Hey Adam, great to hear from you BTW  :thumb-up: .  My 2 cents worth, Mod it to your liking and keep it.  Mod it to what you want, if that's exactly the same as your other shovels (no disrespect intended), then they can be a guide for the luthier.  If, as you say, the saddles are maxed out, then the neck angle is wrong  :nono: , but if you like the neck angle  :dunno: , then one choice is to deepen the neck pocket (as you've suggested).  Another approach would be to shim the rear (toward neck end) with an old bit of credit card (or make a nice angled maple shim (or buy one from StuMac etc)).  This will shallow the neck/body angle and bring the saddles into adjustable range and not require routing (like what you have to do to fix most (well allot in my experience) of fender guitars).  Take it to you guy and talk through the options.  Or sell it if you think some like a guitar that's maxed out its adjustment range.. to me it's bad manufacture/design.
I just did a quick search on the price of that model, it's a cheaper end of town guitar ~$700 AUD entry level (again not meaning to deride it in any way and please correct me if I'm wrong), to me this is similar to taking a Fender Squire or Epiphone and making it how I want (like my Squire bullet strat, MIJ Profile Tele and Epiphone SG; all cheap(ish) and now how I like them).

Hey RG, I'm sure MJMP is up for it  :thumb-up: , he'll enjoy it LoL, and it's not some random piece of kit, it's a very cool preamp  :whoohoo!: .  Also there is a bunch of stuff going on with this unit, just get him to sort it for you.  Removing the back jack may not be wise  :dunno: :nono: (though replacing it is), have a look on the schematic how it's interconnected with the front jack, definitely MJMP territory IMHO.

Hey Hanneman213, good advice from SC, using an amps loop return (typically) feeds straight into the poweramp stage and bypasses the amps preamp (desirable with ADA preamps). Down side is it's mono so you need 2 amps for best effect.  With fender twin you'll need to run into its preamp stage (as no loop).  So you'd use the clean channel and keep the input gain low.  Also the fenders eq stage is in the signal chain.  In the back of the new(ish) A/DA App 1 manual are some (good) suggested eq settings for various amps (manual available from A/DA site and also here in App1 area).  You want to set the eq as flat as possible.  Different amps do their tone/eq stack differently so it's not necessarily intuitive how to make it as flat as possible (which is what you want).
So I'd take the fender twin for one channel and Bugera loop return for the other and tweak until it blows your mind  >:D , you can also add a bit of the Twin's reverb (spring reverb sounds quite nice)

Hey jimnastic, great tips  :thumb-up: many thanks for that and welcome  :whoohoo!: . When you retube your MP2, I highly recommend some Mullard long Plate re-issues, they work really really well in MP2s  >:D

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Let us know how you go, condolences BTW  :facepalm: :wave: , I know the feeling.

Hey RG, we seem to have a file upload issue in recent times, even though the board is configured to take up to a 20MB file anything over a certain amount fails (eg I tried to upload a 3MB MP2 manual and it wont let me  :facepalm: (and used to be fine).  I've asked Dante to check with the ISP and try to work out why.
Great you like the sound, now just have to get it all working.  From the schematic, that back jack is interactly associated with the front input.  My take on it.. send it to MJMP the guru of all things electrical  :bow: .

Discussions / Re: Guitar Playing Fatigue
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Hey RG, well I'm 58 and playing better than ever (though Mike could probably comment on that as he's witnessed my playing over many years).  As you say there's lots of good tips in this topic and I'll add some at some point though I need to make a video of it rather than try and "word" it.  But key IMHO is controlling that grip.  It's essential that you only ever use "just" enough or the right amount of pressure to achieve each note/chord/energy and be really economical with how you play. Don't let your fingers go too far from the strings when not in use (ie lightly rest them on the notes in the position your in so all you have to do is press the note down, how hard you press should be commensurate with the energy you need in that note).  This also applies to how hard you grip the pick, the note(s) you play are a combination of how you pick, how you fret and the energy you want in that note/chord etc.  Of course all enhanced (or otherwise) by your rig/sound/tone.  BTW playing a bit of acoustic guitar really helps your note dynamics and builds finger strength.

@ herbyguitar, I generally like to have a good triple Tequila  (I've found that Siera Tequila (the one with the Mexican red hat works for me, it has a great energy that make me want to play).  I've also found that cheap shitty whiskey brings me down  :facepalm: so I avoid it.

Hey Steve, Probably in Discussions or All Preamp Tech tips & support  :dunno: or we could add a new board for Routing and Patching if people want it?  Routing and patching tend to come up as a result of other things like "Got a new thingy" so I spose much of that commentary is spread around various boards as it's integral to everything.

OK Routing & Patching board added under Let's Get Technical (, lets see how it goes, Steve, you can have the first post  :thumb-up:
Maybe there's some posts Kim (the consolidator  :wave: ) thinks should move or get copied into there.

Hey Chucky, great to hear from you, your ears must have been burning, I was wondering where you'd got to  :wave:

No worries, hope you get it sorted  :wave: :thumb-up:

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