Hey Gang,
I'll just add my 2 cents to this thread FWIW.
The idea of 3 winds around the post, is something I only apply to non-tremolo guitars. The idea being that it winds the string down lower on the post to give it a break over the nut. On a tremolo equipped guitar, all that changes and varies with the type of tremolo being used. The 3 winds on the string post is supposed to give you the best clarity and tone on a hard-tail guitar, but consider this: the actual tone comes from the string between the nut and the bridge, since that is where all your vibration and notes come from.
On a non-locking floating tremolo, (vintage Strat style), I use the original split-shaft tuners as locking tuners by simply cutting the string 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 past the post, inserting the end into the center hole, and then bend the string at the top of the hole and wrap it around the bottom of the split. I tune it up from there with only 1/2 to 3/4 of a string wind around the post. That may seem to be too precarious as far as stability, but it gives me the least amount of tuning issues when using the tremolo. (All of mine are floating BTW). I use a string stretcher made by Fender, on every guitar I re-string regardless, and add a small drop of Selmer liquid grease in the nut slot of a regular bone nut. I get very good results on my stock Strats with this method. On Strats that have the Schaller type tuners, I replace those with Locking tuners that will fit into the peg holes. If they are staggered posts, then I have to remove the string trees, or that will cause tuning issues when I use the tremolo.
On a FR equipped guitar, it really doesn't matter how many winds you have on the post. You can wrap the entire extra string around the post if you want to, so that if you break a string at the bridge, where it usually happens on my FR, then you can unlock the nut, and unwind as much string as you need to get it back in the clamp at the bridge, tune it up, lock the nut, fine tune it and go! As I mentioned before, all your sound and action is happening between the nut and the bridge. If you choose to use a lot of string length on the post, just guide the string as you wind it with a string winder, down the shaft, then back up in an even layer so that it won't cause tuning issues on the initial tune-up. Once you lock the nut down, it doesn't matter if you have 3 or 30 winds on the post, it makes no difference on a double locking system.
As for the locking string tie at the post, I used to do that on the plain strings of my guitars a long time ago, but I stopped doing it because it really doesn't make any difference to an steel string guitar. I believe the only guitar that matters on is a Classical guitar because the plain nylon strings will tend to slip as well as stretch when they are new. That's where I believe that technique came from. As for the wound strings, they will catch the windings on the edge of the post hole and grip as they begin to tighten and stretch. so it isn't necessary for those.
That's what works for me, but to each their own. I say, if what you're doing works for you, then you're doing it right, if not, then it's time to try something different
Harley