ADA Depot - A Forum To Support Users of ADA Amplification Gear
ADA Preamps => Original MP-1 => Topic started by: vmaxvmax on September 25, 2016, 07:05:15 AM
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Hi,
Has anyone used the Simtek STK12C68-PF45 for a battery less mod? If so any issues?
I have done the standard battery mod - but this seems like a surefire way of keeping the presets...
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Yes http://adadepot.com/index.php?topic=1464.0 (http://adadepot.com/index.php?topic=1464.0)
Although since you've done the standard battery mod you probably good for another 20 years LoL
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Thank you for the really quick answer. - I should have searched and found that thread...
Seems the downside is that you lose the reset facility in the case of corruption.
I'll stick with the battery mod!
I am just rediscovering my MP-1 after having left it for the last ten years! It is still a great machine.
Thank you again.
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No worries, good you are re-discovering your MP-1 :thumb-up: . I had to dig around a bit to find that thread, I knew it was there somewhere...
I think you could still do a factory restore and clear the patches with the battery-less mod ? You can also do a dump to PC (sysex) and then reload them. And the ultimate fail safe is to write them down.
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Hey Folks I've come back to ADA MP-1 after a 20 year hiatus and just bought MP1s. 20 years ago replacing the battery wasn't something that ever came up. I did a search on here and didn't find any info on replacing or doing a basic battery mod, not the battery less. Could any of you share a link or give a brief walk through?
Thanks :)
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Hey DjC, the original batteries went way longer than we expected. Most MP1s are pretty much due for a change. We started getting more and more battery fail issues. There are a few posts IIRC regarding the dead batteries :facepalm: . When the battery goes you loose all your presets, so if there are any you want to keep write them down. The factory presets are stored in the EPROM so you can load them again easily. The battery keeps the RAM alive and is where all the changed presets are stored.
The battery mod is reasonably straight forward. Just involves removing the old battery and installing a battery holder and new battery (CR2032 Lithium). Then future battery changes a easy.
The battery holder required for MP1 is the type that mounts flat to the PCB. You can buy them from electronics stores (MP2 batteries mount vertically). MJMP also has them available including battery and instructions (http://www.marshalljmpmodshop.net/miscellaneous_parts_and_replacement_tubes.htm).
The battery needs to be 2.7v or better, less than 2.7v you should change.
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Man thanks so much for the info rnolan and the replay my friend!
This sounds fairly simple so when I get my units I'll hit you guys up for a little more guidance if needed.
By the way, how will I know if the battery is bad or getting low?
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Best is to measure the voltage of the battery, if it's below 2,7V it's time to change it.
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Hey DjC, not sure how under the hood you are ? so just in case :dunno: , take off the top cover (while unit not plugged in), locate the battery, use a multimeter (if you don't have one yet it's a good idea to get one :thumb-up: ) and measure the DC voltage of the battery (one probe on +ve, one on -ve). If it's less than 2.7 v time for battery change. When the battery dies the unit still works, it just doesn't "remember" any of your stored patches.
The MP1 is a many splendid thingy, if you develop a particular patch or patches (which undoubtedly you will) that you love..., write them down (some advice from a long time user ).
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"the original batteries went way longer than we expected." They sure did! I have an old MP-1 with the hole in the top to the switch, Version 1.0, and my battery says Made In USA, so you know that sucker is old. I am starting to see glitching from time to time, I need to change it, but don't know how.
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Hey VoxG2, first thing is write down any patches you really care about. Changing the battery will erase them all (except factory settings, they are on the EPROM and you can reload them easily). The battery mounts to the MP1's main PCB in 2 spots (a +ve & -ve). The original battery will have solder lugs attached to it and they are soldered into the PCB. You can either get a new battery (3v Lithium e.g CR2032) which has the solder lugs attached, de-solder the current battery, and solder in the new one, or get a battery holder and solder that in instead. To do the soldering, you need to remove the top and bottom covers, de-solder/solder from underneath the PCB. If you shine a desk lamp onto the top side it helps see where the components are from underneath.
One thing I would say (not knowing how you are with a soldering iron etc), use a decent soldering iron that you can dial in the temperature and a small "chisel" tip :thumb-up: and watch a few soldering/de-soldering you tube clips (there's quite a few good ones).
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Hey rnolan thanks for the advice!
Man this stuff is all so new yet old at the same time really. There was a time in 1996' when I had 7 ADA MP-1s because when the grunge thing hit you buy a MP-1 here in Las Vegas for $80.00!!!! SERIOUSLY! So I had several and the only issue was if the faceplate was clean and not damaged. Other than that there weren't any issues.
So I'm having to go through all these threads and catch up on all the little issues - AND mods no available.
So I'm grateful for all the info and time you are spending with me! :banana:
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No worries, happy to help :thumb-up:
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If you have a V2.xx eprom you can also save your presets on a computer with midi sysex files.Change the battery and put the backup back into the mp-1.This doesn't work with V1.xx eproms though.
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OK this seals the deal for me then Marshall JMP - the ability to download and save on the V2 versions is huge to me. Those are the ones I'll look for from now on! :green-banana-smiley-emoticon:
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Great, let me know if you have any questions should you find one and are not sure about something.
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OK this seals the deal for me then Marshall JMP - the ability to download and save on the V2 versions is huge to me. Those are the ones I'll look for from now on! :green-banana-smiley-emoticon:
Hey Dannyjoe, it's not the MP1 hardware version that has the added program save and restore. You can (and we do) put a v2.01 EPROM in our V1 MP1s so we can do this. It's the added midi/sysex functionality in the later EPROM version that you need. So if you find V1 MP1s for a good price, you can always update the EPROM.
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OK thank you rnolan!
I will keep this in mind because I have put the word out that I'm looking for MP-1s to build up my cache again so if I have repair issues. I will contact you or someone on the forum here :D
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Ahh a cache of MP1s :whoohoo!: , what could be better ? hmm, a cache of MP2s >:D , you haven't discovered them yet it seems ? And then there's the MP1 Classic, I don't have one (yet), but I daresay I'll get one (or 2) someday LoL. From what the Classic owner members say, it could become my goto guit preamp ??? And I'm loving my MB1s, awesome bass preamp :thumb-up: .
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I'm kind of thinking I should at least have one more MP-1 that's stock, but not at the prices I'm seeing on Evil-bay, they're just not worth that much.
I'll definitely stand by my Classics though...the closest thing to Plexi that ADA ever came up with, and I'll put it up against any of the boutique amps that are out there trying to copy and hot-rod the Plexi design. (Friedman, Metropoulos, Reeves, Mezzabarba, etc.)
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Hey Harley, how many classics do you have ?? maybe we could swap ? I have a US stock MP-1 :dunno:
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Hey Richard,
I have two, one working, one not, but I plan to fix that ASAP. I doubt if I would let go of one, because again I would want to have a back up.
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Hey Harley, I understand :thumb-up: . Let me know though, or if you see one..
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Hey Richard, there aren't many of those on Evil-bay, and they are way too expensive most of the time. If I see one near Australia, I'll be sure to let you know.
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Thanks Harley :thumb-up:
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Ahh a cache of MP1s :whoohoo!: , what could be better ? hmm, a cache of MP2s >:D , you haven't discovered them yet it seems ? And then there's the MP1 Classic, I don't have one (yet), but I daresay I'll get one (or 2) someday LoL. From what the Classic owner members say, it could become my goto guit preamp ??? And I'm loving my MB1s, awesome bass preamp :thumb-up: .
Well Richard back in 94' I believe was when ADA unveiled the MP2 I was one of the first guys here in Vegas to purchase one. I was extremely interested in the noise gate among other things. At the time it seemed a completely different voicing and I found the gate fluttered or what I called respirated and I ended up having to still use the Rocktron Hush.
So When the MP-1 Classic came out I bought that too and still again the gate problem for me and a departure from the MP-1 tone.
However with all the info and mods and upgrades you all speak of on here I may to revisit these other units.
So a quick question for anyone wanting to chime in - Did/do either the MP2 or Classic have settings or patches that are based on the MP-1 and is there a fix for the sputtering gate? :)
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Hi Dan,
The MP-2 came out in 1989, and I know there is a chip upgrade for it that also helps solve the gate chatter issue, but I haven't heard of one for the Classic though. I've never had a problem with noise gate chatter on the Classic.
I believe MJMP has the upgrade for the MP-2, or knows where to get them.
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Hi Dan,
The MP-2 came out in 1989, and I know there is a chip upgrade for it that also helps solve the gate chatter issue, but I haven't heard of one for the Classic though. I've never had a problem with noise gate chatter on the Classic.
I believe MJMP has the upgrade for the MP-2, or knows where to get them.
Wow my memory these days LOL! Then was it the Classic that came out in 94" Harley? I have lost track. Though this is good about the upgrade for the gate. Do you think you can get the same tones out of the later models as the MP-1 or are they different voicings?
I wish I had a way to try this stuff out and hear the different versions of ADAs. Other than buying them which will cost a lot of money, I'll have to try and find other Depot members hopefully on the US West Coast to maybe sometime hook up.
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Hey Dan,
Yes, it was around 93-84 when the Classic came out and the MP-1 was discontinued. The classic replaced the original, but they don't sound the same for the most part.
The Classic has an added voice they called "Brown" tube voicing. There were some other notable differences in the Classic. It also had a built in noise gate, Stereo effects loops, and Direct outputs on the back with a selectable cab emulation.
The Classic retained the ease of editing and storing presets that you had with the original MP-1, but I find the Chorus is much more subtle than the original and the MP-2.
To my ears, the Classic doesn't have as much low end range as the original, but it's overdrives are much smoother and it's very responsive to your pick attack, so you could be in a well overdriven gain setting, but clean it up by softening your pick attack and /or rolling your guitar volume knob back. It's very dynamic and responsive, like a vintage amp should be.
Dante and Gibsonrich are out on the Left Coast, and a few others, we're all over the map! :lol:
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In the MP2, early on there was a resistor change to fix gate chatter, most MP2s seem to already have this fixed (R612 was it ?)
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OK more great info guys!!
Yeah I remember thinking the MP2 or Classic would have my same sound but I guess they really were different, but I guess in a good way! :thumb-up:
Still need to find and MP-1 with MDRT already in it and take it for spin!
Hey Dan,
Dante and Gibsonrich are out on the Left Coast, and a few others, we're all over the map! :lol:
pin!
Thanks Harley! I need to hook up with those guys and have a US West Coast ADA Jam Party!! :banana-rock: :headbanger:
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Now that sounds like fun to me :thumb-up:
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@Harley, I think the MP-2 came out in 93 not 89? And you're correct about the classic, that was 94.
@Rn, it's R611, replace the 10M with a 3M resistor. See PDF.
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Thanks MJMP :thumb-up:
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No problem
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How do you change the battery when it hasn't been modded? I have a 1.38 unit with a Made In USA battery in it so I assume it's the original battery.
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How do you change the battery when it hasn't been modded? I have a 1.38 unit with a Made In USA battery in it so I assume it's the original battery.
I think the only way is to buy a battery with soldered lugs, remove old battery desoldering it from MP-1 and solder new battery.
Otherwise buy a battery holder, solder it to MP-1 and change battery as and when you want! :banana-rock:
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You can get batteries with the lugs attached, finding the right one can be tricky :dunno: (ie with the lugs in the right place). Easiest is definitely get a CR2032 battery holder (flat to PCB style for MP-1, MP-2 is vertical mount). The holders are cheap and electronics stores generally have them. The battery needs to be 3v lithium, CR2032 does the trick and they are very easy to buy. Or you can buy one from MJMP (so you know it will fit :thumb-up: and comes with a battery http://www.marshalljmpmodshop.net/miscellaneous_parts_and_replacement_tubes.htm).
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Arrrgh...sounds like a headache!
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Arrrgh...sounds like a headache!
Nooooooooooooo!!!
Just a couple of solderings and here we go! :thumb-up:
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So I'm better off just doing the mod then, or is a battery swap easier?
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lol...and thanks. I know a tech that will probably do it for cheap. Where do I find the battery holder? Thanks again...so much help.
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In many ways the battery holder is easier. You get them from an electronics (or decent computer) store (we have Jaycar here) and you need one that mounts flat (parallel to the PCB), or as I said just buy it from MJMP. Regardless the old battery has to be de-soldered and removed. You can get batteries (3v lithium) with the lugs in the right place (all the ones I've seen here in stores are in the WRONG place). It is possible to solder wires onto a battery and do it that way but NOT recommended. MikeB did this and it wasn't easy (he said) not to mention heating the battery up with a soldering iron to make the solder flow isn't a good idea, lithium batteries don't like to get hot LoL. You can also get a battery with lugs attached and solder wires to the lugs and then to the PCB, it will work but isn't very tidy/elegant.
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I've got my battery mod kit from MJMP: Keystone battery holder and a Varta CR2032.
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Yeah I found the battery mod the easiest to do and I was able to get the battery holder ( receptical ) and the 2032 cell at Radio Shack both for $7.58 total :banana:
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@Harley, I think the MP-2 came out in 93 not 89? And you're correct about the classic, that was 94.
I got my 1st MP-2 in 1990, and it was used because the guy who bought it couldn't figure out how to use it, so I got a deal on it :thumb-up:
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In many ways the battery holder is easier. You get them from an electronics (or decent computer) store (we have Jaycar here) and you need one that mounts flat (parallel to the PCB), or as I said just buy it from MJMP. Regardless the old battery has to be de-soldered and removed. You can get batteries (3v lithium) with the lugs in the right place (all the ones I've seen here in stores are in the WRONG place). It is possible to solder wires onto a battery and do it that way but NOT recommended. MikeB did this and it wasn't easy (he said) not to mention heating the battery up with a soldering iron to make the solder flow isn't a good idea, lithium batteries don't like to get hot LoL. You can also get a battery with lugs attached and solder wires to the lugs and then to the PCB, it will work but isn't very tidy/elegant.
Man that was a tough thing trying to desolder the lugs off the battery when I did my mod! I never did get that solder joint to break free so I did it the regular ( and easy ) way by just removing it from the other side of the board and putting in the new holder and battery.
I'm pretty sure this is the easiest mod to do on an MP-1 :banana:
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While you're at it, and in cross reference to your tube swapping, remove the U4 OpAmp (TL072) and replace it with a socket and put a BurrBrown OPA2604. Lower noise, more dynamics and more "tube-like" feel and sound!
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While you're at it, and in cross reference to your tube swapping, remove the U4 OpAmp (TL072) and replace it with a socket and put a BurrBrown OPA2604. Lower noise, more dynamics and more "tube-like" feel and sound!
Whoa you just opened a can of worms for me SC :lol:
OK pics please - show me where this chip is and give me a little run down what it may do if you please :D
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While you're at it, and in cross reference to your tube swapping, remove the U4 OpAmp (TL072) and replace it with a socket and put a BurrBrown OPA2604. Lower noise, more dynamics and more "tube-like" feel and sound!
Whoa you just opened a can of worms for me SC :lol:
OK pics please - show me where this chip is and give me a little run down what it may do if you please :D
Dual OpAmp U4 is an OpAmp gain stage that is located directly before- and feeds the 1st tube stage. The BurrBrown OPA2604AP is an audiophile OpAmp that is known for a very "tube-like" behaviour when "driven" and in this sense is way more dynamic and harmonically rich that the "standard" TL072....it also has lower noise floor (the less "noise" you feed into the tube stages the less will get amplified through 4 tube stages (quadrupled) and come out at the end).
Check Noise mod instructions, page 9 for pics and location:
http://adadepot.com/mods/ADA_MP-1_Noise-Mod_Doc.pdf (http://adadepot.com/mods/ADA_MP-1_Noise-Mod_Doc.pdf)
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While you're at it, and in cross reference to your tube swapping, remove the U4 OpAmp (TL072) and replace it with a socket and put a BurrBrown OPA2604. Lower noise, more dynamics and more "tube-like" feel and sound!
Whoa you just opened a can of worms for me SC :lol:
OK pics please - show me where this chip is and give me a little run down what it may do if you please :D
Dual OpAmp U4 is an OpAmp gain stage that is located directly before- and feeds the 1st tube stage. The BurrBrown OPA2604AP is an audiophile OpAmp that is known for a very "tube-like" behaviour when "driven" and in this sense is way more dynamic and harmonically rich that the "standard" TL072....it also has lower noise floor (the less "noise" you feed into the tube stages the less will get amplified through 4 tube stages (quadrupled) and come out at the end).
Check Noise mod instructions, page 9 for pics and location:
http://adadepot.com/mods/ADA_MP-1_Noise-Mod_Doc.pdf (http://adadepot.com/mods/ADA_MP-1_Noise-Mod_Doc.pdf)
Could be really cool, but a little more involved than I'd want to get on my own - something I'd have MJMP do, which I think he may have done some of that with my unit he has now. But thank you for sharing! SC!
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Sawapping that OpAmp is as easy as doing the Battery Mod ;-) Swing that soldering iron with confidence!!
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Sawapping that OpAmp is as easy as doing the Battery Mod ;-) Swing that soldering iron with confidence!!
May have to give that a try - are those ICs available at Radio Shack or can I order them online?
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Dunno if RatShack has them....
Mouser is outta stock of OPA2604AP at the moment...
Maybe Digikey and definitely eBay....get an 8Pin DIP IC socket as well.
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It seems they (TI) doesn't make them anymore. Mouser informed me about this about a year ago so I bought their remaining stock (about 100 pieces).
@Danny, I haven't changed it in the mp-1, if you want I can, I always put in an IC socket so you can also experiment with other opamps should you not like it (which I doubt).So let me know and I'll change it.
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It seems they (TI) doesn't make them anymore. Mouser informed me about this about a year ago so I bought their remaining stock (about 100 pieces).
@Danny, I haven't changed it in the mp-1, if you want I can, I always put in an IC socket so you can also experiment with other opamps should you not like it (which I doubt).So let me know and I'll change it.
Thank you for that offer but I better leave it stock MJMP; I would worry that if I REALLY like it and it goes out and can't get it again. :facepalm:
But I thank you for letting me know that MJMP! I have several more MP-1s to send you my friend - Jason and I now have 9 units and you will end up getting several of them because of how they misbehave :-[
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hey Danny, no need to worry. Go for the socketed U4 with an OPA2604. They don't wear like tubes do. IIRC it's npart of the new noise mod 8as well as MJMPs Ultra and Ultra+ mods) anyway.
You can still get the ICs at various places.
@MJMP...on a sidenote: We have a district here in Tokyo (Akihabara) nick-named "Electronic District"....any special stuff you want me to look out for? I'll be on R&R in Germany in July and can bring stuff to Europe in my luggage and then ship it over from Germany to Belgium...just sayin...
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hey Danny, no need to worry. Go for the socketed U4 with an OPA2604. They don't wear like tubes do. IIRC it's npart of the new noise mod 8as well as MJMPs Ultra and Ultra+ mods) anyway.
You can still get the ICs at various places.
@MJMP...on a sidenote: We have a district here in Tokyo (Akihabara) nick-named "Electronic District"....any special stuff you want me to look out for? I'll be on R&R in Germany in July and can bring stuff to Europe in my luggage and then ship it over from Germany to Belgium...just sayin...
OK real good to know SC - thanks Bro!! :thumb-up: