Hey Tomy (and Peter), I'm about to become a bass player (well sort of, I need to buy a bass LoL), I've got 2 MB1s (with MDRTs' and MJMP ravioli cumming soon
) and a B500b albeit a US voltage amp and Mike gets his MDRT
, comments to come when it's installed.
Hey RG, yeah broken pad
(F^&&%%^$%$k), so in this particular instance, I was lucky as I could use a combination of a fair bit of solder and a bit of wire to make it all connect (MP2 R913). It wasn't pretty, and I'm not super happy about it, but it works fine.
So to break it down a bit, while I was using my desoldering iron on one side of R913, I suspect I've overheated it. The pad lifted off (and then disappeared into the ether).. not good
. So fortuitously it wasn't a particularly complicated connection, so I managed to bridge the broken track (as now no pad) and splash some solder to where it needed to connect to and "bobs your uncle" it worked all good but I'm pissed that I f&&&cked up.. Although it was my first go at a real MP2 (I'd practiced a bit on dead bits of gear).
Now MJMP please feel free to interject here but the less time you have to spend on a solder join the better. So to that end you need your iron at the right temp which is up there (360c solder/380c desolder) and like microwave ovens I'm sure it varies a bit.... ). Basically you want to spend the "least" time at a particular joint (so pads don't lift etc) (think heat and time are different with different results). So a "hot" iron makes sense (careful but does pay off if you are careful
) Crap here's me crapping on about soldering, this is MJMP's area...
The other thing I'd say is that from what I've gleaned, generally you'd suck the solder out (desolder station or solder wick stuff), the part will drop out (or easy to pull out), nice clean hole, then solder in the new part.. Now if you do what you have done (heat the joins and pull the part), yeah it works (with burnt fingers typically)) but I suspect the MJMPs' of this world don't do it that way.
Anyway my 2 cents worth...