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[kawai2g4b]

You are dead right, I got a steal and these things are real sleepers.  I happened to be really lucky with mine in that it is in good condition.  Not only that, you can take it out of metal territory easily, which does not happen often with shredders. 

Cort did a great job building these.

[rabidgerry]

I must compare serial numbers.  You sure yours is a Cort factory build?  I dunno about.  All I know from the serial is it's Korean (all the deluxe models are) and was made in 1999.  The ended the deluxe in 01 I think.

Mine was in near perfect conditon also.  It has been my main giggin guitar for like 2 years.  Frets are still big and fat.  Also mine has a little push/pull pot to split the bridge humbucker (they guy I bought it from in England fitted this).  It's a neat little mod.

check this image with me and the stagemaster.  Not really sure how to describe the colour, like a grey metallic blue

[trader144]

My malmsteen strat has a brass nut and it is excellent. It makes it vey brassy vs a bone but. The guitar has a secondary ring that I think is caused by the nut and some may not like an instrument that rings on its own.

[rabidgerry]

My malmsteen strat has a brass nut and it is excellent. It makes it vey brassy vs a bone but. The guitar has a secondary ring that I think is caused by the nut and some may not like an instrument that rings on its own.

are you happy with the brass nut?  I'm looking into a big brass sustain block made for a few of my guitars.  Brassy seems to ring, like a bell 

[trader144]

Yes, I am extremely happy with the entire guitar...but of course that encompasses a lot more than just the brass nut.

[rnolan]

Hey RG, brass = more mass = more sustain and for nut adds some brightness coz it's metal not bone or some kind of plastic. Ivory sounds great (more dense than bone) but not PC to use, then there's carbon nuts to reduce friction. I went down the brass path on my early Japanese Anson strat 35 years ago when it was the fashion... Brass nut, brass saddles, brass scatch plate (needs to be lacquered or turns blue.. good reflections though) does improve sustain, and I liked the sound of it (it's different, bright but kind of mellow at the same time if that makes sense). But do you want more sustain ? Sure some additional crispness I think you'd like (so brass nut ?). The sustain you notice more with big blusy/rock bends with lots of space, anyway my 2 cents worth.
The brass sustain blocks (where the springs plug in) in floyds (or similar) helps also. My Anderson's floyed has brass, and I recently bought a brass block for my Schaller floyed (in my tele), subtle but does improve sustain (also is warm ?? I think).
Cheers R

[kawai2g4b]

Rabidgerry, when I looked up the info, it showed that the deluxe serial numbers that begin with a K are from Cort. Mine is 24 frets as well so it's a later one.

[rabidgerry]

Hey RG, brass = more mass = more sustain and for nut adds some brightness coz it's metal not bone or some kind of plastic. Ivory sounds great (more dense than bone) but not PC to use, then there's carbon nuts to reduce friction. I went down the brass path on my early Japanese Anson strat 35 years ago when it was the fashion... Brass nut, brass saddles, brass scatch plate (needs to be lacquered or turns blue.. good reflections though) does improve sustain, and I liked the sound of it (it's different, bright but kind of mellow at the same time if that makes sense). But do you want more sustain ? Sure some additional crispness I think you'd like (so brass nut ?). The sustain you notice more with big blusy/rock bends with lots of space, anyway my 2 cents worth.
The brass sustain blocks (where the springs plug in) in floyds (or similar) helps also. My Anderson's floyed has brass, and I recently bought a brass block for my Schaller floyed (in my tele), subtle but does improve sustain (also is warm ?? I think).
Cheers R

That's why I want a big block duhh!         Not a standard size one but a bigger one.  A few of my axes have a brass block but only small size (standard).

Santana was big into brass I heard in the 70's.

Rabidgerry, when I looked up the info, it showed that the deluxe serial numbers that begin with a K are from Cort. Mine is 24 frets as well so it's a later one.

I Think all the deluxe models have 24 frets, (deluxe meaning the thru neck version)  Even the showmaster's I own have 24 frets also (the renamed Stagemaster).  I have one Stagemaster with 22frets and a scratchplate!!!

here is the serial number - KC00116187

00 is the year.  Mine is from 2000 

[Systematic Chaos]

I also got big blocks on all my axes...subtle improvement but def worth it:



I got mine from this seller on eBay whom I can highly recommend:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/FLOYD-ROSE-ORIGINAL-TREMOLO-BRIDGE-BRASS-GUITAR-BIG-MAGNUM-BLOCK-TONE-UPGRADE-/191419347602?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c917b7292

[rabidgerry]

I also got big blocks on all my axes...subtle improvement but def worth it:

I got mine from this seller on eBay whom I can highly recommend:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/FLOYD-ROSE-ORIGINAL-TREMOLO-BRIDGE-BRASS-GUITAR-BIG-MAGNUM-BLOCK-TONE-UPGRADE-/191419347602?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c917b7292

Amazing man!!  That's basically what and why I wanna do that.  Here's a story.  I got a MIM Strat, superb instrument, same as an American standard build wise IMO.  Anyways. I got a fat strat with a Licenced FR.  So it's nice, good bridge, but I figured what the hell I'll try upgrade with a bigger block!!

WRONG!  this bridge has some weird sized screws that fitted through the bass plate that were smaller than regular FR's and also different screw hole widths from regular FR's.  I tried to get a custom block made to accommodate the weirdness and ended up getting ripped of by a company called "killer guitar components".

They basically made a few blocks for me and kept getting it wrong (it was a tricky task given they were in the states and could only work from my measurements).  Anyways they kept telling me they would get one to fit and like the 3rd time I returned the block to them they just severed all ties with me and took my money.  Bastards!!

It was all because of the screw hole alignment.

On an MIM there is only room for downward bends, so upward bends is impossible, so getting a block that can still fit and allow for full downward bend was tough as well.  This combination of weird things from this unusual licenced bridge Fender stuck on their MIM defeated me.

I've a bunch of others guitars though like the Squier Stagemaster that can be swapped out with normal FR parts though if need be, I've checked.

Thanks for the link Systematic Chaos I'm going to check out your guy

[Systematic Chaos]

...Fender MiM FR Strat....

Is that a mid/late 90s HSS Strat w/ fotoflame finish and Floyd Rose II or the HSS with the rev headstock?? Post some pics....

[rabidgerry]

...Fender MiM FR Strat....

Is that a mid/late 90s HSS Strat w/ fotoflame finish and Floyd Rose II or the HSS with the rev headstock?? Post some pics....

I will do

No the MIM is the standard MIM Strat the sell currently.  I actually had an earlier version again from arond 2002 but some assholes burgled my house and stole it.  I replaced it then with an 07 or 08 MIM midnight wine standard fat strat.  Photos on the way.

Here is a link to the guitar I am on about with a weird  fitting screws

http://www.fender.com/en-GB/guitars/stratocaster/standard-stratocaster-hss-with-locking-tremolo-rosewood-fingerboard-midnight-wine-no-bag/

[rnolan]

Hey SC, how do you attach the springs (or am I missing something here ?), Does any one make Brass FR saddles/jaws of life and lock nuts ?

Hey RG bane of my life doing up guitars where the screws etc are just out... partly metric vs imperial, partly copy write.

[rabidgerry]

Hey SC, how do you attach the springs (or am I missing something here ?), Does any one make Brass FR saddles/jaws of life and lock nuts ?

Hey RG bane of my life doing up guitars where the screws etc are just out... partly metric vs imperial, partly copy write.

hey Richard, SC's block has springs attached, just like any other trem, that's just the unit uninstalled.  When it goes back in it has springs pull it back same as a regular strat trem.

Man I hear ya about measurements, really in this day and age standards should be set.  This FR I am talking about is like no other screw fitting to the baseplate I have ever seen.  Most licenced copies are usually pretty much the same spec.

[rnolan]

Hey RG, yeah but there's usually 5 small holes for the the spring ends (like the old one next to it in the pic), the big brass block has a plate with 2 allen bolts, how do the springs attach ? (e.g. under the plate and it's there to clamp them in ?). Actually thinking about that makes sense, going for max sustain and ensure spring ends stay firmly attached, I ask because I've not seen that before.
When I put a new brass sustain block on my Schaller lic FR (in my Tele) I was pleasantly surprised that it all lined up perfectly (lifes good LOL). I also put in some saddle shims coz the tele's FB radius is sharper (smaller circle), something I hadn't considered when I bought the Schaller and did all the routing to make it fully floating and flat with the top. Ther original sustain block pocked out the back a bit (I could whammy with my belly LOL), new one is the correct depth (shorter) and brass. My Anderson came with FR and brass block, all I've had to do with it is set it up and restring it, dream guitar... I put in a trem setter and moved the LH strap thingy from back of neck (ala SG) to normal strat spot on top pointy bit.