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Let us never forget our beloved founder - RIP Jurrie, we all miss you very much

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 1 
 on: Today at 03:06 AM 
Started by Hanneman213 - Last post by rnolan
Hey Hanneman213, lots of empathy here, it's an age old problem.  I've done various things over the years, my goal was always to have as little to carry and plug in as possible, I also run a 8 channel desk in my rack.  Initially I had it velcroed to the back lid so I just flipped it on top and left it all plugged in.
So there are a few strategies you could consider.  bunkyloos idea is a good one but it may not suit you  :dunno: and also has costs associated with it.Do you have front and rear rack rails ?  Having rear rack rails can help but not all racks have them. Power conditioners (e.g. Furman) typically have a bunch of power outlets which can help organise the AC.  Also they come in different formats of AC outlets either normal power style (though typically US style) or IEC which is more universal.  They also take up a rack space (at least), cost quite a bit, but can be mounted from the back (if you have rear rails).
It seems strange that very few rack cases have an easy way to include a power board.  Power boards come in various shapes and sizes (obviously) so getting one to fit, that accommodates all the different plugs and wall warts (which vary in width) you need is the trick.Mounting your step up tranny (voltage converter) to the bottom is a good idea, careful re weight distribution (as well as keeping away fro input leads etc).  I have one 4 RU rack with a step down (240 to 117) mounted on the bottom.  It's a plywood rack which looks custom made, I got it as part of a MP1 purchase, the MP1 is US model.
My main rack is a 8RU SKB.  Front rails only.  So I've used industrial strength Velcro to attach my small desk to the bottom.  I have a power strip (with just 1 overall on/off switch) velcroed vertically to the very back right hand side (looking from the back).  The Quadverb power supply is large so I have it velcroed to the bottom and side squeezed in between the mixer and the left hand side (its come loose lately so needs some attention  :facepalm: ).  All the various cables I've coiled up neatly and used cable ties to keep the coils in check.  I used to wind my 7 pin midi cable into the rack and leave it plugged in.  These days I keep it in a lead case (I have a small carry case like people use as carry-on on planes).  I also put my MXC, exp pedal and quad switch in the case (with some foam around them), speaker leads, input lead, small (triangle style) guitar stand strobo clip tuner, wrist bands, towel in this case.
 

 2 
 on: Time Format 
Started by Hanneman213 - Last post by bunkyloo
A larger rack case and a rackmount power conditioner. Possibly one on wheels large enough to mount your power converter permanently on the bottom plywood and cover the front with cooling fans for everything. That's what I would do any how and obviously route the ac voltage and your converter from any and all audio path cables. Then again I am a fan of big racks! :headbanger:

 3 
 on: Time Format 
Started by Hanneman213 - Last post by Hanneman213
I have 4 units in my rack case. It's completely looking like intestine and chaotic devil work. That means to me 4 power cables attached to a portable Multi Outlet power unit , at least 6 patch cables, 1 midi cable,1 speaker cable and I carry a heavy 110 to 220v voltage converter apart from this case.
After my show I try Huddle all things to space behind the case and close it with an intense effort.

So, How do you solve the power issue ? Any examples for powering all things together through a modification or with a useful device rather than this living room tv-hifi style multipower unit ?

Regards.

 4 
 on: Time Format 
Started by mqqse - Last post by Luke Gibson
I really want a Voodoo Modded JMP-1, I saw Def Leppard last year and Vivian’s tone out front was fantastic. I believe he’s still using the Voodoo Modded JMP-1 with the Axe-FX for effects....  Awesome!!!

I was lucky to find mine for the price I paid.   It’s hard to find with any Voodoo mods now that the service isn’t offered anymore.

Indeed they are.....  Enjoy yours in good health sir!

 5 
 on: Time Format 
Started by jimnastic - Last post by MarshallJMP
It seems some pedals can sweep the full range of the pot and some don't, the ADA CCP doesn't seem to do this, so that's why there is a calibration. A Boss FV500 (exp out) has the full range.

 6 
 on: Time Format 
Started by parisblue1 - Last post by MarshallJMP
I use the Carlins, but they are not cheap. The cost was as muc as I payed for the pedal  :facepalm:

Carling SPST SW110

 7 
 on: Time Format 
Started by rnolan - Last post by rnolan
When you plug in a CCP into the MXC pedal jack the first time you should set the range (http://adadepot.com/index.php?topic=2172.msg24798;topicseen#msg24798).Also when you use a CCP with the MB-1 (and for CC control the MB-1 needs to have the last/latest EPROM v2.05 (get one here if you haven't got that version http://www.marshalljmpmodshop.net/miscellaneous_parts_and_replacement_tubes.htm), you have to sweep past the current setting for that parameter in the given patch to activate/grab it eg if you are controlling master vol and it's set at 6 in the patch, you need to sweep up to and slightly past 6 on the pedal for it to start to work.
EPROM version is displayed during startup.  When I was doing this I used the global master which just had to be "grabbed" on startup, then it worked across all patches, other patch parameters need to be "grabbed" on a patch by patch basis.

 8 
 on: Time Format 
Started by jimnastic - Last post by rnolan
Page 4 of the MXC manual describes the initial set up for the CCP sweep range and soft switch pressure.  It's stored in the MXC.


 9 
 on: Time Format 
Started by rnolan - Last post by Peter H. Boer
Any CC pedal would do.
I use(d) Roland EV-5

 10 
 on: Time Format 
Started by jimnastic - Last post by jimnastic
 :facepalm:
Just realised (actually thinking before I type!) a range pot would be potentiometer in series...

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