ADA Depot Too - A Forum To Support Users of ADA Amplification Gear

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  


Let us never forget our beloved founder - RIP Jurrie, we all miss you very much

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - van Sinn

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 35
MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
I guess this already has been tried, but anyways:
Has anyone tried following the logic/control signals with a scope to determine whether or not the compressor can actually be controlled?
And likewise follow the audio signals and the precision rectifier part of the compandor chip?

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
The engineer has know-how; the university-educated has know-why
Careful, when arguing against superior knowledge..

MP-2 / Re: mp2 comp on no sound
« on: Time Format »
Never had that issue myself, but given how damn hot both the Analog Devises dual compandor and associated opamp runs due to +/- 24 volt rails, I'd start looking at those two chips.

One advantage of hooking the FX into the MP2 send/return loop is that you can often reduce the number of presets/settings needed in the FX, simply because of being able to dry/wet mix-in the amount of those fewer effects presets.
Tis how I always did it with my MP2 and Digitech TSR24-S.

Discussions / Re: Guitar Playing Fatigue
« on: Time Format »
Yeah, sure, there's this thing about getting so-called older; however, much of that can be (partially) eliminated by studying how our organism really works, what's required in terms of maintenance and nutrition.

Back @RG: Could it be that
* your neck profile doesn't fit your hand
* your guitar has a slight neck dive
If it's the balance, light weight tuners can help, as can replacing the single strap knob on the body-end with two, using the left-most for the strap, as this moves the balancing point.
Or maybe your hard grip is simply a build-in habit, in need of methodical reworking..

If it's a guitar you know you won't separate from, and you feel it'll be just what you want, go aqhead and mod it to your liking.
But, as you said it yourself, may not be sell-able, should this be warranted at some point.

I once had a Dan Armstrong, early 70's mahogany with sliding pickup, modded by a luthier.
Yes, it did end up improved and much different, but had lost it's originality, and of course is unsellable except to that one in a thousand dude who just loves such an untraditional axe.
Had I kept it original, it might've been worth 20k+ DKK..

Yeah, good to hear from you again; was starting to think something might've happened..
Yes, we do care ;)

Nice Suhr, good looks. They make neat guitars.

From my experience, a bad input jack jack doesn't give an error code?

ERROR 42: Jack has a crack or slack. Remedy: Give Jack a whack; if problem persists, sack jack.

Yeah, I was close to buying one many years ago.
I had communication with the owner and designer.
It's fairly uncomplicated, build from ordinary electronics, and can be repaired.
I'll need to extract these communications from a backup - may even have schematics, don't remember; well, this I'll do anyways for some other data needed, so will try to get this done.

IIRC, outputs are driven from an ordinary opamp; mmnn.. maybe a TL07x/8x series.. could be the only thing defect. Don't remember where in the chain the output level potmeter is located, but it's an old carbon-trace thingy, so.. easily checked.
Mmnn. I also seem to remember both inputs and outputs are clamped with diodes to protect against too high levels; check those too.
That's all I can remember ATM.

Discussions / Re: General EQ Question
« on: Time Format »
Yeah, we're a tight bunch of old farts in here - plus of course some new blood comin' in ;)

Discussions / Re: General EQ Question
« on: Time Format »
In general:
180-250 Hz will add thumpf, you know, the pump-in-the-chest drive.
400-600 Hz will add a fuller body.
800-850 Hz adds a harder, Tom Scholz / Boston sound.
1120 or so Hz can create the ESP Active EMG old-school snarl tone.
Around 2000 Hz adds a harder, more edgy tone.

All of this is adding something, also known as additive filtering.
The other direction, removing something, is called subtractive filtering, which is often overlooked, because many tends to naturally want to add to their sound.

Lets say, as you've stated, that your amp sound a Bit too scooped in the mids.
Maybe you hear it this way because it really is scooped, but if in reality it's only a small touch scooped, how you perceive it could be because the ranges above and below are really a Bit pumped up.
If so, instead of adding more mids, you might have success with gently scooping-out some of those ranges.

Sometimes, removing something else than the immediate felt problem can result in greater clarity, where adding what immediately seems to be missing can lead to a more swollen tone.

I'm not saying this is what you should do; it's just a suggestion.
But hey, you got a graphics EQ, so go experimental, dude ;)

As a comparison, the ADA MP-2 has a fou-band stack and a 9-band graphics EQ.
I used to add all kinds of small little EQ'ing with the EQ, and could fiddle forever, until I learned to keep it fully flat, setup the 4-band first, and then, using the 9-band, lift a few spots just a touch - and cut away what was intruding into the soundscape, i.e. using subtractive filtering.

This is actually the same approach photographers use.
Rather than trying to flood the studio with lights, use a black panel on the other side of the model to remove some light there, in order to create a more felt contrast.

And now to the fun department..
Of course the ultimate solution to your problems would be to have the amp modded with different power transformer and power tubes, and replace those pesky scooping 12" speakers with some harder sounding ones.
Yup, I'm in that mood tonite; it's just meant as a joke - well, not that there isn't some truth in such mods, but it can be a rather expensive solution.

« on: Time Format »
Well, the E530 has no build-in MIDI, but Engl makes the Z-11 MIDI switcher, which can be hooked up to control the E530.
Woodoo Labs also has a MIDI switcher. And you could likely use an old Scholz Octopus (if you can find one).
Try a search on "engl e530 midi", and see what comes up.

Here's some info on hooking-up the E530 to a G-Major:

E530 manual:

Had one, sounded and felt too sterile to my taste.
Effects were good, compressor super, but especially distortions and amp models were too sterile and harsh.
I never loaded it with custom IR's, though, which was probably a big mistake.
However, the electric violin player who bought it immediately got great sounds out of it ;)

Cool find, when limited functionality is required.
I assume you've bought the left-one on

I didn't see specifications, capabilities, dimensions, weight..

Well.. I can tell that my two MP-2's react at different speed on Voicing 9+10 and one of the 4/5/6 ones; can't remember which one.
I definitely believe the Vactrol's are getting slower at going from one to another setting on one of the MP-2.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 35